Anyone who has an appreciation for the arts (classical music, ballet, art, etc.) would love to live in Santiago. The classical music lover in me is in hog heaven. Last night, Dave and I attended one of three or four free Christmas concerts in our neighborhood and it was literally just down our street. The setup apparently has taken days, but I expected a small ensemble with maybe 100 or so patrons; I was shocked to see how huge it was. (Our community, Lo Barnechea, has an enormous "corporacion cultural" and sponsors all sorts of events.)
It was one of the more interesting concerts I've attended. The entire event - all outdoors - was a perfect blend of a classical music concert and a baseball game. There were bleachers all around the stage and a huge area in the middle with seats. It was standing room only at the start of the concert. I opted for the bleachers in the middle back (best sound) and throughout the concert, there were guys walking around selling bags of peanuts, popcorn and sweets. People were climbing up and down the bleachers throughout the concert, kids were running around everywhere, but I was still able to hear everything thanks to an excellent sound system, fantastic photography and a huge video monitor set up on stage. When it got dark, the vendors started selling little light up toys for the kids. I thought we'd be underdressed but everyone was in jeans, sweatshirts, coats, sandals, etc.
True to Chilean style, the concert didn't start until 8:55 pm (after a published 8:30 pm start time) and wasn't over until about 11:00 pm, but the last half of the concert, Stravinsky's "Firebird" and Ravel's "Bolero" pulled everyone to their feet for a standing ovation. The applause and bravos went on and on; it was wonderful to hear such an appreciative crowd. I walked home with some neighbors happily humming "Bolero."
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Monday, December 13, 2010
Explanations
Something I wasn't expecting when we moved the family to another country: explanations. For the most part, it seems as if most of our American friends and acquaintances cannot understand why we would move. We've been confronted with questions such as, "Why move the entire family? How are you going to work? Where is Chile? You don't know the language, how are you going to communicate? What about schools? When will you visit?" and my favorite, "What if it doesn't work out? That's an awful lot of stress; why do that to yourselves?" Interestingly enough, our European/South American friends have never asked us any of these questions, and I'm not sure why.
And in response, I say, "Why not?" Our time in Chile is starting to go by very quickly; we've been here nearly 5 months and have experienced so much. The kids are thriving. One family we know back in Dallas had the opportunity to live in France for 3 years; they told us we would be silly to pass up such a wonderful opportunity. Do I miss the States? Yes, sometimes, mostly just our friends. Quite honestly, I grow tired of having to explain and defend our decision to relocate for a year. I'd rather discuss our experiences and talk to my friends about their lives.
To quote a friend I worked with back in Dallas when we were weighing the pros and cons of making the move here... "If you got the opportunity to move to Chile, take it. It will be an amazing experience. When you get a lot older, you don't want to look back on your life and say, 'I never went for the gusto.'" Well my friend, I went for it!
And in response, I say, "Why not?" Our time in Chile is starting to go by very quickly; we've been here nearly 5 months and have experienced so much. The kids are thriving. One family we know back in Dallas had the opportunity to live in France for 3 years; they told us we would be silly to pass up such a wonderful opportunity. Do I miss the States? Yes, sometimes, mostly just our friends. Quite honestly, I grow tired of having to explain and defend our decision to relocate for a year. I'd rather discuss our experiences and talk to my friends about their lives.
To quote a friend I worked with back in Dallas when we were weighing the pros and cons of making the move here... "If you got the opportunity to move to Chile, take it. It will be an amazing experience. When you get a lot older, you don't want to look back on your life and say, 'I never went for the gusto.'" Well my friend, I went for it!
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Bicyclists
(Josh, this one's for you. Yes, it's all true.)
Recently, I did a little volunteer work in a city right outside Santiago, so I had to commute about 20-30 minutes through a mountain pass and on the freeway to get there. It was a beautiful, scenic ride but with hairpin turns, limited visibility, steep grades, narrow roads and the danger of falling rocks on the road. I had cars whizzing by me - shocking, because I really drive like a racecar driver. The biggest danger? The bicyclists.
Now I understand the importance of hill work to both runners and cyclists, but the riders in the mountains seem suicidal. A car flies around a curve, but watch out - there's a cyclist. And they don't ride in packs; I've usually only seen solo riders. I'm shocked I don't read about more deaths or injuries to these guys. They fly down the mountains without a care in the world and the cars just don't seem to care either. I just cringe every time I see one.
Even worse, I see riders on the freeways (called "autopistas"), usually cycling on the shoulder. I nearly - very accidentally - hit one on an entrance ramp when I was getting on the autopista. They ride on very packed main streets, too; I've seen a few riders try to pass a bus (and lose, although one got back up on his bike and was fine) and I've seen others run into pedestrians. We actually have a large dent on the back of our SUV here from where a rider ran into us. He recovered and rode off so quickly we were never able to see if he was okay. I would like to say that at least he was wearing a helmet, but unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
On the plus side? Visibly scanning the streets for riders (and pedestrians, who always have right of way) while driving certainly makes me a better, more cautious driver. I just wish more of the cyclists would stop playing chicken with the city buses...
Recently, I did a little volunteer work in a city right outside Santiago, so I had to commute about 20-30 minutes through a mountain pass and on the freeway to get there. It was a beautiful, scenic ride but with hairpin turns, limited visibility, steep grades, narrow roads and the danger of falling rocks on the road. I had cars whizzing by me - shocking, because I really drive like a racecar driver. The biggest danger? The bicyclists.
Now I understand the importance of hill work to both runners and cyclists, but the riders in the mountains seem suicidal. A car flies around a curve, but watch out - there's a cyclist. And they don't ride in packs; I've usually only seen solo riders. I'm shocked I don't read about more deaths or injuries to these guys. They fly down the mountains without a care in the world and the cars just don't seem to care either. I just cringe every time I see one.
Even worse, I see riders on the freeways (called "autopistas"), usually cycling on the shoulder. I nearly - very accidentally - hit one on an entrance ramp when I was getting on the autopista. They ride on very packed main streets, too; I've seen a few riders try to pass a bus (and lose, although one got back up on his bike and was fine) and I've seen others run into pedestrians. We actually have a large dent on the back of our SUV here from where a rider ran into us. He recovered and rode off so quickly we were never able to see if he was okay. I would like to say that at least he was wearing a helmet, but unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
On the plus side? Visibly scanning the streets for riders (and pedestrians, who always have right of way) while driving certainly makes me a better, more cautious driver. I just wish more of the cyclists would stop playing chicken with the city buses...
Christmas, Part 3
One of my very favorite things about Christmas is all the Christmas lights people hang on their houses every year. I'm really into the whole "Snoopy's Doghouse" look. Here, I have yet to see a single light hung up. I have scoured the shelves of the grocery and hardware stores here, looking for outdoor lights. I'm convinced they simply do not exist. I think the idea of exterior lights is completely alien down here. Also, since everyone lives behind huge walls, I doubt there would be anything to see anyway.
Generally speaking, Christmas lights are very expensive here. A box of lights runs about $9,000 pesos (a little more than $18.00 USD.) Luckily there was a huge sale at Jumbo last weekend; I bought every box of clear lights I could find and I'll try to hang them outside - even if we are the only ones that can see them. At least it will feel a little more like home.
Generally speaking, Christmas lights are very expensive here. A box of lights runs about $9,000 pesos (a little more than $18.00 USD.) Luckily there was a huge sale at Jumbo last weekend; I bought every box of clear lights I could find and I'll try to hang them outside - even if we are the only ones that can see them. At least it will feel a little more like home.
Christmas, Part 2
The other day, I was grocery shopping at "Jumbo" (the only "j" that's actually pronounced here) and was listening to piped in Christmas music. I was at the bread counter getting my bag of bread weighed and coded when "Frosty the Snowman" came on overhead. Seriously. So I told the bread lady that the music was pretty strange, wasn't it. She smiled at me a little, and I asked her if she know what the song was. She had no idea of it's meaning.
So here was a first... actually explaining the "Frosty" lyrics to someone. During late springtime. In a grocery store. In another language. I'm not sure if she really understood everything I said, but at least it was good Spanish practice.
So here was a first... actually explaining the "Frosty" lyrics to someone. During late springtime. In a grocery store. In another language. I'm not sure if she really understood everything I said, but at least it was good Spanish practice.
Christmas, Part 1
Since Chile is "a Catholic country" (which is how their constitution is written), Christmas is a big event here. Until recently, I never realized how much "Christmas" is a northern hemisphere, European/North American holiday.
All the Christmas decorations involve Santa, reindeer, fake snow, manger scenes - everything you see in the USA. I am planning to get a a Christmas tree, but here's the problem: it's nearly summer. After consulting a fellow expat who's got 18 years experience in Chile, I was told that fake trees are the way to go; no one has real trees. My friend actually has two small trees on her dining table, so small that any sort of Christmas ornament weighs them down and knocks them over.
And since we'll probably be wearing bathing suits and swimming in our pool on Christmas day, I think I'll find a palm tree for this year's Christmas tree.
All the Christmas decorations involve Santa, reindeer, fake snow, manger scenes - everything you see in the USA. I am planning to get a a Christmas tree, but here's the problem: it's nearly summer. After consulting a fellow expat who's got 18 years experience in Chile, I was told that fake trees are the way to go; no one has real trees. My friend actually has two small trees on her dining table, so small that any sort of Christmas ornament weighs them down and knocks them over.
And since we'll probably be wearing bathing suits and swimming in our pool on Christmas day, I think I'll find a palm tree for this year's Christmas tree.
Movies
Opening day for the movie "Harry Potter 7" in Santiago. I told Molly and her friend I would take both of them as soon as it opened. Anticipating a long line and sellout crowds, I drove to the theater and bought the tickets a few hours ahead. I shouldn't have worried. There were no crowds and the theater itself was just 1/4 full. It could have been because it was a Friday afternoon and things really don't start hopping down here until 8 or 9 at night, but still, I thought it was strange. Very subdued crowd. Maybe it was the theater.
We went to another movie a few weeks later, and the theater was only moderately full. It was an adventure movie, and since I was used to boisterous crowds in theaters, I expected cheering during the good fight scenes. Complete silence, and it wasn't a language barrier either. Maybe Chileans just get excited during football matches.
We went to another movie a few weeks later, and the theater was only moderately full. It was an adventure movie, and since I was used to boisterous crowds in theaters, I expected cheering during the good fight scenes. Complete silence, and it wasn't a language barrier either. Maybe Chileans just get excited during football matches.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Running
For exercise, I've run since I was in high school, on and off, usually very slowly and very badly. In order to keep in shape here, I picked up running again and I must say I haven't enjoyed it this much in a long, long time. The view of the mountains and of the city is spectacular no matter where I run.
I usually run through the neighborhood, in the streets, on the sidewalks, etc., and it's an excellent way to learn my way around the area. I am getting to know the houses, the dogs, the construction workers (who always make me feel fit and beautiful) and the security patrol. There must be a 4-5 private patrol cars that drive around the area all day; we're not on a first name basis yet, but we do smile and wave. It's nice to know I can call to them if I get injured.
I've even ventured into the mountains a little also - bought my first ever pair of trail shoes. I have a 100m hill climb I like to do every Wednesday. I just hope my knees will hold out.
I usually run through the neighborhood, in the streets, on the sidewalks, etc., and it's an excellent way to learn my way around the area. I am getting to know the houses, the dogs, the construction workers (who always make me feel fit and beautiful) and the security patrol. There must be a 4-5 private patrol cars that drive around the area all day; we're not on a first name basis yet, but we do smile and wave. It's nice to know I can call to them if I get injured.
I've even ventured into the mountains a little also - bought my first ever pair of trail shoes. I have a 100m hill climb I like to do every Wednesday. I just hope my knees will hold out.
Punctuality
Punctuality is not a concept of any importance in Santiago. Meetings, events, sports, etc., simply do not start on time here. For example, I've had two business meetings with the same company, and neither meeting started either early or on time (in fact, I actually rescheduled and left after waiting over 30 minutes.) Molly had a football championship event the other night so her team could earn their medals. It started 50 minutes late. And I was worried that we would be late since the traffic was so bad.
So I can do one of two things: either get very agitated and stressed that nothing runs on time, or sit back, relax and take on the Chilean mentality of "it will happen when it happens." I've chosen the latter and believe me, it's a lot less stressful.
So I can do one of two things: either get very agitated and stressed that nothing runs on time, or sit back, relax and take on the Chilean mentality of "it will happen when it happens." I've chosen the latter and believe me, it's a lot less stressful.
Car Breakdown - Funny!
One afternoon Dave picked up Max from school and noticed a car broken down in the middle lane of Ave. Los Condes, a very busy 4-6 lane road. While waiting at a red light, they noticed that the police had arrived to take care of the situation. But, where was the tow truck?
No tow truck, no problem. The policeman walked out in the middle of traffic, stopped all the cars, motioned to about 10 teenagers on the sidewalk waiting at the bus stop (all in crisp school uniforms with backpacks in tow) and waved the teens over. All of them students then assisted in pushing the car over to the side of the road to free up traffic congestion.
Amazing. I can just hear one of the parents now, "Honey, I'm doing laundry. Why is there gear grease all over your school skirt?"
No tow truck, no problem. The policeman walked out in the middle of traffic, stopped all the cars, motioned to about 10 teenagers on the sidewalk waiting at the bus stop (all in crisp school uniforms with backpacks in tow) and waved the teens over. All of them students then assisted in pushing the car over to the side of the road to free up traffic congestion.
Amazing. I can just hear one of the parents now, "Honey, I'm doing laundry. Why is there gear grease all over your school skirt?"
Lightbulbs
For some reason, lightbulbs simply don't last long in Santiago. When Molly told me her desk lamp bulb had burned out, I went to go buy a new one. That was an adventure.
There are more different kinds of lightbulbs here than I've ever seen. Different watts (of course) but what is really confusing is the base sizes. There doesn't seem to be an sort of regulated lamp base size; most of them are completely different. And I'm not sure how the bulbs don't get broken. Most of the time they're simply packed in little cardboard boxes, with no discernible padding.
Dave's taking care of replacing the lightbulbs in the bathroom. That seems to be taking a while...
There are more different kinds of lightbulbs here than I've ever seen. Different watts (of course) but what is really confusing is the base sizes. There doesn't seem to be an sort of regulated lamp base size; most of them are completely different. And I'm not sure how the bulbs don't get broken. Most of the time they're simply packed in little cardboard boxes, with no discernible padding.
Dave's taking care of replacing the lightbulbs in the bathroom. That seems to be taking a while...
National Anthem
The oddest things make me homesick. I was at an event the other night, and everyone rose to sing the national anthem. Chile's national anthem. First of all, I can't understand it at all (although I'm researching the lyrics on the internet), and second, it is REALLY long.
I felt an uncomfortable pang of sadness and realized that I missed the USA's national anthem, with all the difficult notes and often sang-out-of-tune music. A bit of patriotism got a hold of me? Perhaps, but I doubt I'll ever take our anthem for granted again, no matter how many times I sing it or hear it.
I felt an uncomfortable pang of sadness and realized that I missed the USA's national anthem, with all the difficult notes and often sang-out-of-tune music. A bit of patriotism got a hold of me? Perhaps, but I doubt I'll ever take our anthem for granted again, no matter how many times I sing it or hear it.
Thanksgiving, Part Two
Being in a foreign country is a little different on a major holiday, especially when the weather is just the opposite of what you're used to. It was so hot on Thanksgiving the kids went swimming. No Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade and it's not a holiday here, but the we kept the kids home from school and enjoyed a day off.
We celebrated with another American/Chilean family and true to Chilean custom, we didn't eat dinner until very late - probably about 8:30 pm. When you're used to eating a Thanksgiving feast at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, this is a big change.
But, true to American culture, we watched a "football" game - live. Actually, it was Molly's "soccer" game; she and her teammates played their championship game and won! Okay, not pads and overgrown boys running around a fake field in the cold, but definitely much more exciting.
We celebrated with another American/Chilean family and true to Chilean custom, we didn't eat dinner until very late - probably about 8:30 pm. When you're used to eating a Thanksgiving feast at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, this is a big change.
But, true to American culture, we watched a "football" game - live. Actually, it was Molly's "soccer" game; she and her teammates played their championship game and won! Okay, not pads and overgrown boys running around a fake field in the cold, but definitely much more exciting.
Thanksgiving, Part One
(Blog is back. Sorry for the delay.)
Now I like to cook. A lot. Of course, not if I have to clean up, and sometimes "prepackaged" or "canned" foods can really help. So when the kids asked for their favorite pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dessert, I thought, "No problem. I've made tons of these." Only problem? Canned pumpkin does NOT exist here. But... there is fresh pumpkin.
A little research on the internet on how to cook fresh pumpkin and I was set. The preparation wasn't quite as difficult as I thought, although pumpkin rinds are extremely tough to cut off (but thank goodness not to many seeds.) After a good 30 minute steam, the pumpkin pulp was done - a bright, dayglo orange. It looked like something out of a science fiction movie.
Needless to say, I cooked the pie (although the cinnamon here is very mild) and it was wonderful, if not very, very vivid orange. We were also able to eat turkey and ham (delicious), potatoes (but not sweet potatoes, couldn't find them), and the popular green bean casserole - with homemade french fried onion rings on top. I might need to open my own restaurant.
Now I like to cook. A lot. Of course, not if I have to clean up, and sometimes "prepackaged" or "canned" foods can really help. So when the kids asked for their favorite pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dessert, I thought, "No problem. I've made tons of these." Only problem? Canned pumpkin does NOT exist here. But... there is fresh pumpkin.
A little research on the internet on how to cook fresh pumpkin and I was set. The preparation wasn't quite as difficult as I thought, although pumpkin rinds are extremely tough to cut off (but thank goodness not to many seeds.) After a good 30 minute steam, the pumpkin pulp was done - a bright, dayglo orange. It looked like something out of a science fiction movie.
Needless to say, I cooked the pie (although the cinnamon here is very mild) and it was wonderful, if not very, very vivid orange. We were also able to eat turkey and ham (delicious), potatoes (but not sweet potatoes, couldn't find them), and the popular green bean casserole - with homemade french fried onion rings on top. I might need to open my own restaurant.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Clase de Espanol
Con permiso... I have been spending much of my time in Spanish class lately, so the blog has suffered. Nothing like a class in a foreign language to make you realize how much you really DON'T know. I'm glad I majored in English because it makes understanding all the verb conjugations; does anyone remember what a gerund is?
I'm really luck since I spend my class with other students from all over the world. My current classmate is from Germany; my last classmate was from Holland and is training to be a doctor, currently doing some of her residency in Bolivia. The teachers are amazing, but no English is spoken at all. My handy dictionary is getting quite a workout. It's pretty nerve-racking to have such a command of one language and be so limited and try to communicate in another.
So my big step today was announcing to Dave that we should only speak Spanish from now on. Easier said than done, but so far I've spoken far more Spanish than English today. This means we only speak Spanish with the kids - so far, so good, but we'll see how long they're patient with us!
I'm really luck since I spend my class with other students from all over the world. My current classmate is from Germany; my last classmate was from Holland and is training to be a doctor, currently doing some of her residency in Bolivia. The teachers are amazing, but no English is spoken at all. My handy dictionary is getting quite a workout. It's pretty nerve-racking to have such a command of one language and be so limited and try to communicate in another.
So my big step today was announcing to Dave that we should only speak Spanish from now on. Easier said than done, but so far I've spoken far more Spanish than English today. This means we only speak Spanish with the kids - so far, so good, but we'll see how long they're patient with us!
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
September's Top 5 of Santiago
I think I'll make this into a monthly routine:
5. I can get cellphone, Internet and FB access while riding on the Metro. For some reason, everyone gets perfect service, even in the tunnels.
4. For the most part, drivers will let you merge, even if you don't signal.
3. After it rains, the sky is so clear you can see kilometers and kilometers of mountains.
2. It's perfectly acceptable to have a glass of wine for lunch.
1. It's springtime, so it'll start getting warmer!
5. I can get cellphone, Internet and FB access while riding on the Metro. For some reason, everyone gets perfect service, even in the tunnels.
4. For the most part, drivers will let you merge, even if you don't signal.
3. After it rains, the sky is so clear you can see kilometers and kilometers of mountains.
2. It's perfectly acceptable to have a glass of wine for lunch.
1. It's springtime, so it'll start getting warmer!
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Business Meetings
First rule of business meetings in Santiago: they never start on time, but this is no excuse for being late. Meetings always start out with coffee (or other beverage of your choice.) People usually go to meeting after meeting, so as Dave says, you need to be watch your fluid intake or you'll really need to use the bathroom! Meetings are extremely social and friendly, but highly efficient, probably because everyone drinks so much coffee.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
Monday, September 20, 2010
Bicentennial
Lots going on this weekend. Chile celebrated it's 200th birthday; here's a small list of activities in which we participated:
1. Ranch: Friends of ours have a "ranch" south of Santiago. It's more like a mountain range; as far as we could see, that was the family ranch. Gorgeous hiking, night parties in the small town down the street.
2. The Border: At the ranch this weekend, we took a drive through the mountains and decided to go as far as we could to the Argentinian border. We made within about 6 miles before we met up with the border control officers. Usually border control = trouble, but these guys gave us a tour of the hot springs located nearby, let us take our picture with them, and gave us a handful of empanadas. Only in Chile.
3. No Shopping: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING shut down Saturday, Sunday and Monday, including all malls, stores, groceries, schools and businesses. I think the only places open were hospitals and gas stations.
4. Parades: We went to the Grand Military Parade at Parque O'Higgins yesterday. Parades here are different. We expected people to line the streets, but instead the President, high-ranking military and other high-ups rode around in front of a stadium and gave speeches. The President drove by us just as a lady next to us fainted; Dave and Molly saw the President, I helped the lady (that's the OT in me.) No bands, no dancers, no floats, but a lot of families picnicking and flying kites.
5. Parties: Since the stores were closed for three days, we stocked up on food. Needless to say, we haven't eaten any of it since we've been at friends' houses. Tomorrow, back to the real world, but bicentennial celebrations only happen once!
1. Ranch: Friends of ours have a "ranch" south of Santiago. It's more like a mountain range; as far as we could see, that was the family ranch. Gorgeous hiking, night parties in the small town down the street.
2. The Border: At the ranch this weekend, we took a drive through the mountains and decided to go as far as we could to the Argentinian border. We made within about 6 miles before we met up with the border control officers. Usually border control = trouble, but these guys gave us a tour of the hot springs located nearby, let us take our picture with them, and gave us a handful of empanadas. Only in Chile.
3. No Shopping: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING shut down Saturday, Sunday and Monday, including all malls, stores, groceries, schools and businesses. I think the only places open were hospitals and gas stations.
4. Parades: We went to the Grand Military Parade at Parque O'Higgins yesterday. Parades here are different. We expected people to line the streets, but instead the President, high-ranking military and other high-ups rode around in front of a stadium and gave speeches. The President drove by us just as a lady next to us fainted; Dave and Molly saw the President, I helped the lady (that's the OT in me.) No bands, no dancers, no floats, but a lot of families picnicking and flying kites.
5. Parties: Since the stores were closed for three days, we stocked up on food. Needless to say, we haven't eaten any of it since we've been at friends' houses. Tomorrow, back to the real world, but bicentennial celebrations only happen once!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Role with the Changes
There are certain things I expected when I moved to Chile - new language, different food, missing my home and friends. Identity loss wasn't one of them. Sure, I've gladly remained in the roles of "mom" and "wife," but lost - for the moment - are my other roles of OT, mentor, coach. After working so hard for many years, it's pretty difficult to slam on the brakes and adjust to a different lifestyle. As an OT, I'm used to helping people reinvent themselves and establish role identity. I am just not very good at helping myself. I'm experiencing major withdrawal symptoms - all of which are completely normal but downright frustrating.
Don't get me wrong: I am enjoying my time here, learning another language and culture, and I really enjoy traveling and socializing, but now that we've settled in I need something to do - something meaningful and cerebral. Many of my Texan friends recommended taking time off, relaxing, traveling. I am doing just that, but I also need to move on to something more of a challenge.
So, I started an intensive Spanish language course. Everyday, 4-5 hours per day for the next 4-6 weeks the kids go to school and so do I. Becoming fluent is definitely a step into a new role, which as yet, excitingly, remains to be seen.
Don't get me wrong: I am enjoying my time here, learning another language and culture, and I really enjoy traveling and socializing, but now that we've settled in I need something to do - something meaningful and cerebral. Many of my Texan friends recommended taking time off, relaxing, traveling. I am doing just that, but I also need to move on to something more of a challenge.
So, I started an intensive Spanish language course. Everyday, 4-5 hours per day for the next 4-6 weeks the kids go to school and so do I. Becoming fluent is definitely a step into a new role, which as yet, excitingly, remains to be seen.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
The Chilean Kitchen
Seeing as it's "bicentennial week" in Chile, I thought I'd try my hand at cooking a few traditional dishes. First, "pate" (turkey - not my first choice for white meat, but it's really good.) The recipe itself was easy enough to translate and follow, but the largest food processor I could find is no bigger than a teacup. I spent more time with the processor than actually cooking, and I made enough pate to feed the Chilean army.
This morning, I am attempting to make "mote con huesillos," a sort of tea with dried peaches and wheat. I soaked the peaches overnight; now they are boiling and looking oddly like something you'd find sunk in formaldehyde in a science lab. The caramel I made to add to the tea was cooking just fine until it took on a mind of it's own and burned (sigh.) Now I know why the stores sell huge containers of pre-made caramel - which I had on hand and added to the brewing "tea" - although now the peaches have a funny film on top (sigh again.) At least I had the foresight to buy the pre-soaked wheat.
I found a fantastic recipe for a "salade to tomate con congrio" that I wanted to try, thinking that congrio was conch. Wrong. It's eel. But it sounds so good I may just have to try it and tell the kids they're eating chicken (everything tastes like chicken!) And I'll pair it with a side of "erizos con salsa verde" (sea urchins with green salsa). Then again, there is a McDonald's right down the street.
This morning, I am attempting to make "mote con huesillos," a sort of tea with dried peaches and wheat. I soaked the peaches overnight; now they are boiling and looking oddly like something you'd find sunk in formaldehyde in a science lab. The caramel I made to add to the tea was cooking just fine until it took on a mind of it's own and burned (sigh.) Now I know why the stores sell huge containers of pre-made caramel - which I had on hand and added to the brewing "tea" - although now the peaches have a funny film on top (sigh again.) At least I had the foresight to buy the pre-soaked wheat.
I found a fantastic recipe for a "salade to tomate con congrio" that I wanted to try, thinking that congrio was conch. Wrong. It's eel. But it sounds so good I may just have to try it and tell the kids they're eating chicken (everything tastes like chicken!) And I'll pair it with a side of "erizos con salsa verde" (sea urchins with green salsa). Then again, there is a McDonald's right down the street.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Beginning the Bicentennial
Well, a country only turns 200 once, so why not make it a big party? Next week, Chile marks it's 200th birthday, and it will be nonstop celebrations every day and night.
It started today with a wonderful presentation at the kids' school. Most of the kids and teachers, decked out in traditional Chilean dress, performed dances and skits; the school band played a few songs (it's a great band!) and there was plenty of empanadas and sopapillas to eat.
Next week, there will be concerts, fireworks, parades, and tons of parties. All the cabs and many of the truck drivers sport clip-on Chilean flags on their vehicles and one of the ski resorts is boasting "1/2 price" skiing all next week.
The best part? Max and Molly - and all the other Chilean kids - have off a week of school to celebrate. That means we can all sleep in after our nights of partying.
It started today with a wonderful presentation at the kids' school. Most of the kids and teachers, decked out in traditional Chilean dress, performed dances and skits; the school band played a few songs (it's a great band!) and there was plenty of empanadas and sopapillas to eat.
Next week, there will be concerts, fireworks, parades, and tons of parties. All the cabs and many of the truck drivers sport clip-on Chilean flags on their vehicles and one of the ski resorts is boasting "1/2 price" skiing all next week.
The best part? Max and Molly - and all the other Chilean kids - have off a week of school to celebrate. That means we can all sleep in after our nights of partying.
A Different September 11
One of the main streets in downtown Santiago is named "Av. 11 de Septembre." The first time I saw this, the small-minded American in me thought, "How nice. Santiago named a street in honor of the 9-11 attacks in NYC." Little did I know that 9-11 has an entirely different meaning in Chile.
Time for a short history lesson: On September 11, 1973, Augusto Pinochet and the Chilean military overthrew President Salvador Allende in a coup d'etat. The country had been economically ailing, and Pinochet's militaristic rule promised to bring about beneficial changes. His control would last until 1990.
Before moving here, I'd always heard that Pinochet was a barbarian, a violator of human rights, which I still strongly agree is true. Now in Chile, I still hear the same sentiments, but interlaced with comments of economic growth under his regime. Can I get a straight answer from anyone in Chile about Pinochet's government and his actions? No, it's a very, very sensitive topic, usually only discussed among close friends (and even then it's a very debatable and delicate subject.)
So how is 11 de Septembre celebrated? Is celebrated the right word? I've never lived in a place where a national holiday is controversial. For safety purposes, I may just watch the "celebrations" on TV tonight; friends have told me to stay away from downtown.
Time for a short history lesson: On September 11, 1973, Augusto Pinochet and the Chilean military overthrew President Salvador Allende in a coup d'etat. The country had been economically ailing, and Pinochet's militaristic rule promised to bring about beneficial changes. His control would last until 1990.
Before moving here, I'd always heard that Pinochet was a barbarian, a violator of human rights, which I still strongly agree is true. Now in Chile, I still hear the same sentiments, but interlaced with comments of economic growth under his regime. Can I get a straight answer from anyone in Chile about Pinochet's government and his actions? No, it's a very, very sensitive topic, usually only discussed among close friends (and even then it's a very debatable and delicate subject.)
So how is 11 de Septembre celebrated? Is celebrated the right word? I've never lived in a place where a national holiday is controversial. For safety purposes, I may just watch the "celebrations" on TV tonight; friends have told me to stay away from downtown.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Fashion
Thank God I'm a brunette, because I'm definitely in the right part of the world! Physically, I could almost pass for a Chilean if it weren't for my green eyes and my substantial and curvy posterior. Oh, and my hair's too short; most of the ladies here have long flowing hair, rarely worn up or back.
Since it's winter now, most everyone wears very dark jackets, black high-heeled boots (all different heights) and tight jeans tucked into the boots - brings new meaning to "goth." And the women all wear scarves, lots of beautiful scarves, all different lengths and fabrics. My favorite item has got to be the sweaters; I now own a couple. Gorgeous colors that I can't find in the USA, with long sleeves and long hemlines in the front, short in the back (the cut almost resembles a handkerchief.) I see a lot of purples, greens, blues, very rich jewel colors and nearly no pastels. Huge handbags are "in" down here, too, all colors and styles but heavily laden with the hardware I see back in the States. Makeup is nearly non-existent but it's just not needed; people's skin here is clear and radiant. (Even the teenagers don't have a lot of acne like I see in the States.)
I'll be curious to see what the spring and summer bring. Stores are touting white jeans and high-heeled sandals. Not sure about the white jeans, but I am learning to walk like a super-model in the heels since I wear them almost daily!
Since it's winter now, most everyone wears very dark jackets, black high-heeled boots (all different heights) and tight jeans tucked into the boots - brings new meaning to "goth." And the women all wear scarves, lots of beautiful scarves, all different lengths and fabrics. My favorite item has got to be the sweaters; I now own a couple. Gorgeous colors that I can't find in the USA, with long sleeves and long hemlines in the front, short in the back (the cut almost resembles a handkerchief.) I see a lot of purples, greens, blues, very rich jewel colors and nearly no pastels. Huge handbags are "in" down here, too, all colors and styles but heavily laden with the hardware I see back in the States. Makeup is nearly non-existent but it's just not needed; people's skin here is clear and radiant. (Even the teenagers don't have a lot of acne like I see in the States.)
I'll be curious to see what the spring and summer bring. Stores are touting white jeans and high-heeled sandals. Not sure about the white jeans, but I am learning to walk like a super-model in the heels since I wear them almost daily!
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Support and Self-Reliance
I was feeling a little lonely last week, so I decided to attend the local International Expat weekly meeting. It was very helpful; I met a lot of wonderful people from all over the world who helped answer some of my questions about Santiago. A number of people asked me what company Dave worked for and how well were we "taken care of" by his company during our move to South America. I was at an utter loss for words, and then it hit me...
Most companies offer moving compensation and relocation support; we used none of that when we moved. One lady at the meeting is taking Spanish lessons and has a personal driver via her husband's company; I'm armed with a map, my trusty dictionary, and a free spirit when I venture out on the metro or in a taxi - alone. None of our furniture came down with us, nor our pets; everything was put in storage, pets were sadly given to friends and we've had to start over. I found and negotiated the terms of the lease on our house here, researched and figured out the kids' school. I battle the crowds when grocery shopping, cook new Chilean dishes using a new measurement system, and I fearlessly make an ass out of myself on a daily basis as I struggle through conversations in Spanish. I walked out of the meeting a little prouder and much more self-assured.
Dave's Dallas-based company has been less than supportive down here, but we're learning all about supporting each other as a family and becoming extremely self-reliant. As Molly said before we moved, "As long as we have each other, we'll be alright."
Most companies offer moving compensation and relocation support; we used none of that when we moved. One lady at the meeting is taking Spanish lessons and has a personal driver via her husband's company; I'm armed with a map, my trusty dictionary, and a free spirit when I venture out on the metro or in a taxi - alone. None of our furniture came down with us, nor our pets; everything was put in storage, pets were sadly given to friends and we've had to start over. I found and negotiated the terms of the lease on our house here, researched and figured out the kids' school. I battle the crowds when grocery shopping, cook new Chilean dishes using a new measurement system, and I fearlessly make an ass out of myself on a daily basis as I struggle through conversations in Spanish. I walked out of the meeting a little prouder and much more self-assured.
Dave's Dallas-based company has been less than supportive down here, but we're learning all about supporting each other as a family and becoming extremely self-reliant. As Molly said before we moved, "As long as we have each other, we'll be alright."
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Santiago Eccentricities, Part II
(A continuation of yesterday's post...)
8. Private schools are "colegios," but public schools are "escuelas." Universities are not colleges but "universidads."
9. A very good bottle of red wine costs much less than a good bottle of body lotion.
10. "No Frost" fridges are a rather recent phenomenon.
11. A simple transaction at a major department store can take 2-3 people: one to ring up the purchase, one to wrap, and one to assist you with any other potential purchases.
12. It's difficult to find "college rule" notebooks; most of the paper in them looks like graph paper. Makes a lot of sense for math!
8. Private schools are "colegios," but public schools are "escuelas." Universities are not colleges but "universidads."
9. A very good bottle of red wine costs much less than a good bottle of body lotion.
10. "No Frost" fridges are a rather recent phenomenon.
11. A simple transaction at a major department store can take 2-3 people: one to ring up the purchase, one to wrap, and one to assist you with any other potential purchases.
12. It's difficult to find "college rule" notebooks; most of the paper in them looks like graph paper. Makes a lot of sense for math!
Santiago Eccentricities
We've been here five weeks now, and there are still some things about Santiago that leave me scratching my head in wonder. I'm not poking fun at the culture; on the contrary, I find these things fascinating and often very efficient. Here's a few examples:
1. Ambulances ALWAYS drive with their lights flashing. If there's an emergency, then the sirens sound.
2. Driving! Cars turn "right" even when in a "straight only" lane. Lane markers are sometimes purely ornamental. There's a lot of lane straddling, too, but there are hardly any left-turn only lanes.
3. Milk isn't sold in gallons and it's not sold in the fridge. It's sold in liters and I buy it by the case. Considering how much milk Molly and I drink this is very helpful.
4. I don't have to pump my own gas. Every gas station has attendants that pump my gas and wash my car windows.
5. It's winter here now, and ALL the ladies wear boots - with heels. And tight jeans. And beautiful scarves. And they are all just beautiful. I'm wearing the heels and scarves; I'm considering the tight jeans.
6. The subway stations have gorgeous artwork on the walls, and a few of the larger stations have shops that sell anything from magazines to women's underwear.
7. Salad dressing is pretty much non-existent here.
To be continued!
1. Ambulances ALWAYS drive with their lights flashing. If there's an emergency, then the sirens sound.
2. Driving! Cars turn "right" even when in a "straight only" lane. Lane markers are sometimes purely ornamental. There's a lot of lane straddling, too, but there are hardly any left-turn only lanes.
3. Milk isn't sold in gallons and it's not sold in the fridge. It's sold in liters and I buy it by the case. Considering how much milk Molly and I drink this is very helpful.
4. I don't have to pump my own gas. Every gas station has attendants that pump my gas and wash my car windows.
5. It's winter here now, and ALL the ladies wear boots - with heels. And tight jeans. And beautiful scarves. And they are all just beautiful. I'm wearing the heels and scarves; I'm considering the tight jeans.
6. The subway stations have gorgeous artwork on the walls, and a few of the larger stations have shops that sell anything from magazines to women's underwear.
7. Salad dressing is pretty much non-existent here.
To be continued!
Friday, September 3, 2010
A Kid's Perspective
As I talked with my kids Max and Molly at breakfast this morning, I thought it would be a good idea to get their perspective of Santiago. I was pleasantly surprised at their answers.
Both repeatedly commented that everyone is "nicer" here - kids and adults. Molly said that the girls and the boys are"super-nice," not just the kids from her school but others that we've met on social occasions. Max likes that the lifestyle is not as rushed and people "have more time for you, don't seem as stressed-out." Both said that other kids in school are helping them learn Spanish and translating for them, too.
Naturally, food was part of the conversation. Molly loves the milk, and both kids commented on the advantages of "better food" here; they said it seemed "healthier." Max appreciates that in a restaurant he's offered a glass of wine along with the adults, although he has no desire to drink.
Granted, it's not been all rosy for the kids, moving from one continent to another, learning a new language, starting a new school, and making new friends; there have been tears, angst, anger and frustration. But I'm so proud at how positive and resilient they are, and even happier that they seem to really enjoy Chile.
Both repeatedly commented that everyone is "nicer" here - kids and adults. Molly said that the girls and the boys are"super-nice," not just the kids from her school but others that we've met on social occasions. Max likes that the lifestyle is not as rushed and people "have more time for you, don't seem as stressed-out." Both said that other kids in school are helping them learn Spanish and translating for them, too.
Naturally, food was part of the conversation. Molly loves the milk, and both kids commented on the advantages of "better food" here; they said it seemed "healthier." Max appreciates that in a restaurant he's offered a glass of wine along with the adults, although he has no desire to drink.
Granted, it's not been all rosy for the kids, moving from one continent to another, learning a new language, starting a new school, and making new friends; there have been tears, angst, anger and frustration. But I'm so proud at how positive and resilient they are, and even happier that they seem to really enjoy Chile.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Competition
This morning, I received an email from one of my dearest friends and fellow coaches back in the States. It seems her daughter has a terrible football (excuse me, "soccer") coach who is ultra-competitive and not a good role model. After reading and replying to the email, it hit me: there's just not the same level of competition here in Chile that there is in the USA.
Now I know I haven't been down here long enough to truly comment on this area, but I have been a coach for 10 years and I'm a pretty hard-driving, type-A personality; I think I have expertise in this area. But when my daughter comes home from school saying that she played volleyball and all the girls had FUN and no one was worried about winning or losing, I began to wonder. Sage observation from an 11-year-old: the girls just wanted to play, even though most of them were fantastic players. No one was forcing them to be the best. My daughter could not have been happier.
I shared this with Dave, who in turn repeated a comment he had heard that day from one of his consultants and close friends, an economics professor here in Chile. His friend claims that Chileans, for the most part, are not competitive. He tells his economics students that if they were removed from the Chilean environment and dropped in the USA, they would get eaten alive.
And Chile is still a very prosperous and economically booming country, not to mention that the Chilean football team made the quarterfinals in the World Cup. Perhaps there is some competition, but it definitely seems healthier.
Now I know I haven't been down here long enough to truly comment on this area, but I have been a coach for 10 years and I'm a pretty hard-driving, type-A personality; I think I have expertise in this area. But when my daughter comes home from school saying that she played volleyball and all the girls had FUN and no one was worried about winning or losing, I began to wonder. Sage observation from an 11-year-old: the girls just wanted to play, even though most of them were fantastic players. No one was forcing them to be the best. My daughter could not have been happier.
I shared this with Dave, who in turn repeated a comment he had heard that day from one of his consultants and close friends, an economics professor here in Chile. His friend claims that Chileans, for the most part, are not competitive. He tells his economics students that if they were removed from the Chilean environment and dropped in the USA, they would get eaten alive.
And Chile is still a very prosperous and economically booming country, not to mention that the Chilean football team made the quarterfinals in the World Cup. Perhaps there is some competition, but it definitely seems healthier.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Chilean Hospitality
I've seldom visited another country where I've been greeted with such warm and welcoming people. Most of the Chileans I've met have gone out of their way to help our family and have treated us lovingly and respectfully. We've been invited to concerts, a family's ranch near the Argentinian border, a fantastic outdoor play park; our new landlord insists on giving a private driving tour of the city.
While the car was being inspected yesterday (see previous post), one of Dave's Chilean friends/employees insisted on driving me to different stores to buy books for the kids' school. First though, we stopped by his house to check on his mother who was in bed with a cold. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in her bedroom visiting with her and a large bowl of hot soup was put in front of me. Then bananas with a wonderful "miel de palme" - a delicious syrup - followed by more chopped fruit. We must have visited for at least 90 minutes; she gave me advice about everything from furniture shopping to food. Her husband came home from work (he's a professor at one of the local unversities) and sat visiting with us while he ate his lunch. The visit never felt rushed and I wished I could have stayed there the rest of the afternoon.
While the car was being inspected yesterday (see previous post), one of Dave's Chilean friends/employees insisted on driving me to different stores to buy books for the kids' school. First though, we stopped by his house to check on his mother who was in bed with a cold. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in her bedroom visiting with her and a large bowl of hot soup was put in front of me. Then bananas with a wonderful "miel de palme" - a delicious syrup - followed by more chopped fruit. We must have visited for at least 90 minutes; she gave me advice about everything from furniture shopping to food. Her husband came home from work (he's a professor at one of the local unversities) and sat visiting with us while he ate his lunch. The visit never felt rushed and I wished I could have stayed there the rest of the afternoon.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Car Inspection
There are certain things that one just should not do - ever - and one of them is getting a car inspected for registration on the last day of the month. About a month ago we purchased a used SVU but could not get it registered since we did not have the proper paperwork. Today, we received everything and set out to have the car inspected.
I've seen grass grow faster.
There were at least 6 lines of cars waiting to drive into a huge warehouse for inspection. We waited 3 1/2 hours, literally parked in line with no way out, in a very questionable part of town. My biggest amusement was playing with the radio, studying Spanish verb conjugations, and watching a herd of horses run by down the main street. For a city that is booming with cars, I'm surprised that there isn't a quicker, more economical way to complete the process.
And no, the SVU didn't pass inspection. One of the parking lights was burned out, but at least we have a 15 day grace period.
I've seen grass grow faster.
There were at least 6 lines of cars waiting to drive into a huge warehouse for inspection. We waited 3 1/2 hours, literally parked in line with no way out, in a very questionable part of town. My biggest amusement was playing with the radio, studying Spanish verb conjugations, and watching a herd of horses run by down the main street. For a city that is booming with cars, I'm surprised that there isn't a quicker, more economical way to complete the process.
And no, the SVU didn't pass inspection. One of the parking lights was burned out, but at least we have a 15 day grace period.
Monday, August 30, 2010
Security!
(Sorry no posts lately; we've been moving into our house.)
Just going shopping down here can be frightening with all of the security, until I realized that it's just part of the culture. For example: go to any grocery store (Jumbo is my favorite) or shopping mall and there are security guards at every entrance. There are security guards on bikes in the parking lots, at the malls - even in the hardware stores. I am just getting used to it.
Then there's the security in the neighborhoods. I found a house for rent at the base of the Andes and while the neighborhood is peaceful and appears safe, every lot seems like a compound, surrounded by high walls and some with electric fences. We have a 6ft.+ tall brick wall topped by very sharp - but delicately pretty - iron spikes. There's also a house alarm (which the owner said he never used) and a neighborhood "watch" security guy that drives around the neighborhood. I feel like I'm waiting for Armageddon. That said, it's a pretty safe city from what I hear, as far as big cities go (knock on wood.)
Detail of the day: Instead of 911 for everything, there are 3 different numbers. The police (carabineros, not policia) are one number, the firemen (bomberos) another and the ambulance still another.
Just going shopping down here can be frightening with all of the security, until I realized that it's just part of the culture. For example: go to any grocery store (Jumbo is my favorite) or shopping mall and there are security guards at every entrance. There are security guards on bikes in the parking lots, at the malls - even in the hardware stores. I am just getting used to it.
Then there's the security in the neighborhoods. I found a house for rent at the base of the Andes and while the neighborhood is peaceful and appears safe, every lot seems like a compound, surrounded by high walls and some with electric fences. We have a 6ft.+ tall brick wall topped by very sharp - but delicately pretty - iron spikes. There's also a house alarm (which the owner said he never used) and a neighborhood "watch" security guy that drives around the neighborhood. I feel like I'm waiting for Armageddon. That said, it's a pretty safe city from what I hear, as far as big cities go (knock on wood.)
Detail of the day: Instead of 911 for everything, there are 3 different numbers. The police (carabineros, not policia) are one number, the firemen (bomberos) another and the ambulance still another.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
How Chileans Celebrate Good News
This barely made a blip on the news back in Dallas but here all the news channels were broadcasting all afternoon: 33 Chilean miners have been stuck 700m underground for several weeks, and today we learned that ALL of them are alive. Since I'm used to CNN and other major news, I thought it sort of odd -but very comforting - that so much time was devoted to this event. The announcement came about 2:30 pm and at about 2:45 pm something wonderful happened: nonstop cars honking. It sounded like a well-orchestrated symphony.
Our temporary living quarters are at an enormously busy intersection, and since it was a nice day, I opened the doors and windows facing the street. Cars drove by honking constantly in celebration of the miners being alive. Dave told me that after some of the matches during the World Cup (when Chile won), ALL the cars would be honking - sort of the Chilean way of cheering and feeling proud. It is such a passionate, heartwarming way to demonstrate love for country and humanity.
Our temporary living quarters are at an enormously busy intersection, and since it was a nice day, I opened the doors and windows facing the street. Cars drove by honking constantly in celebration of the miners being alive. Dave told me that after some of the matches during the World Cup (when Chile won), ALL the cars would be honking - sort of the Chilean way of cheering and feeling proud. It is such a passionate, heartwarming way to demonstrate love for country and humanity.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Driving
Now I've lived in big cities (D.C. and Los Angeles) and visited far more, so I'm very familiar with city driving. However, I've never quite experienced "city driving" like I have in Santiago. First of all, it's nearly impossible to make left-hand turns; it's just not allowed (unless there's an adequate turn lane.) Traffic lights and stop signs? Mere formalities. I've seen people run red lights, stop signs, yield signs, etc. It's not uncommon for two or even three lanes to make right hand turns. In our short time here, we've been broadsided by a big Dodge truck and had a bicyclist run into the back of our SUV (he's fine, although there's a big dent in the door.)
The autopistas - the freeways - usually have a speed limit of 110 km/hr, but that's also a mere formality. The BMWs and Audis have no problem flying by me - and I'm usually going the speed limit or a little over. It reminds of driving in Germany. On the neighborhood streets, there are speed bumps ("resaltos") everywhere, and people just pound over them without breaking. No school zone speed limits, people driving over curbs, lanes that disappear without warning, and people just drive really, really fast. A good friend of mine said my driving scares her anyway. She probably won't want to drive with me now - I'm becoming very accustomed to the rules of the road here. It takes intense concentration and a lot of patience, but it certainly moves.
The autopistas - the freeways - usually have a speed limit of 110 km/hr, but that's also a mere formality. The BMWs and Audis have no problem flying by me - and I'm usually going the speed limit or a little over. It reminds of driving in Germany. On the neighborhood streets, there are speed bumps ("resaltos") everywhere, and people just pound over them without breaking. No school zone speed limits, people driving over curbs, lanes that disappear without warning, and people just drive really, really fast. A good friend of mine said my driving scares her anyway. She probably won't want to drive with me now - I'm becoming very accustomed to the rules of the road here. It takes intense concentration and a lot of patience, but it certainly moves.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Banking and other Financial Details
I have never seen so many ATMs in one city, and they are constantly being used by people. I attempted to pull some money at the mall on Sunday, and the machine said it only had bills of 2,000 pesos (roughly about $4 US, so it would have meant a whole lot of bills if I tried to withdraw $200 US.) Now granted we're temporarily residing in the financial district of Santiago until we get a house, but after we opened up a bank account today, I learned that only about 10% of Chilean citizens actually have bank accounts. This seems odd given all the banks around. Talk about old school - a lot is done on a cash basis, which could explain why the Chilean economy is doing so well.
Everyone here has to have a "rut" (route) number, too - it's sort of like a Social Security number, but not nearly as protected. Apparently there are very difficult to get if you aren't a citizen, so Dave has been pretty lucky to secure one for the business.
Some things are just ridiculously expensive: gas is about $6 US per gallon, but a whole bag of fresh bread is about $1 US. A good bottle of Eucerin lotion cost me about $14 US the other day, but Dave and I stocked up on some excellent 2004 wine at about $4 US a bottle.
Everyone here has to have a "rut" (route) number, too - it's sort of like a Social Security number, but not nearly as protected. Apparently there are very difficult to get if you aren't a citizen, so Dave has been pretty lucky to secure one for the business.
Some things are just ridiculously expensive: gas is about $6 US per gallon, but a whole bag of fresh bread is about $1 US. A good bottle of Eucerin lotion cost me about $14 US the other day, but Dave and I stocked up on some excellent 2004 wine at about $4 US a bottle.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Schools and Apartments, Part II
Sigh... after 18 years in the same house, I forgot how difficult it is to search for a place to live, let alone a school where I know my kids will be happy. Note to anyone moving to a new place: maps and a little Internet research are your best friends. I knew before moving what where the top spots are to live, but acquiring a map when I got to Santiago proved difficult (I finally found a good city map in a small little bookstore, only to find it doesn't have my "potential new neighborhood" on it.)
Anyway, the kids "sit" for a placement examination on Tuesday and could start school as early as later next week. We've narrowed down on the "barrio" we want but we just need to get in touch with the right "broker" (realtor.)
Details: There is no MLS listing here, so hiring a realtor/broker and having her search for a house is very difficult. I've done most of the research myself via Internet or through the newspaper - good practice for reading Spanish. The actual driving to look at the houses I've found needs to be part of a separate blog!
Anyway, the kids "sit" for a placement examination on Tuesday and could start school as early as later next week. We've narrowed down on the "barrio" we want but we just need to get in touch with the right "broker" (realtor.)
Details: There is no MLS listing here, so hiring a realtor/broker and having her search for a house is very difficult. I've done most of the research myself via Internet or through the newspaper - good practice for reading Spanish. The actual driving to look at the houses I've found needs to be part of a separate blog!
Monday, August 9, 2010
Schools and Apartments
Typical Monday in Santiago today: lots of work. I spent a lot of the day on the Internet researching schools and housing. There are at least 75+ private schools in the Santiago area, a lot of them Catholic or Christian, a few where you "pick your own religion class" (I think) and many of them are either all-boys or all-girls. Needless to say, the kids are NOT thrilled at the idea of same-sex schools.
Apartment/house hunting is a little more difficult. A house might be nice, but the apartments here are huge, mostly with enormous balconies (called loggias) and small servants quarters. The kitchens are usually very small though, since nearly everyone has cooks/maids, and in a lot of the wealthier areas, some of the maids and nannies live with the families.
Important detail: In regards to communication, email seems to be the equivalent of postal mail; people just do not respond as quickly as I'm used to. I just received an email from a property lady at 10:30 tonight! Phone calls seem to be the best way to go, except if you're trying to learn Spanish and reading and writing is much easier.
Apartment/house hunting is a little more difficult. A house might be nice, but the apartments here are huge, mostly with enormous balconies (called loggias) and small servants quarters. The kitchens are usually very small though, since nearly everyone has cooks/maids, and in a lot of the wealthier areas, some of the maids and nannies live with the families.
Important detail: In regards to communication, email seems to be the equivalent of postal mail; people just do not respond as quickly as I'm used to. I just received an email from a property lady at 10:30 tonight! Phone calls seem to be the best way to go, except if you're trying to learn Spanish and reading and writing is much easier.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Mercado Central, the "Fish Market"
Dave and I ventured out on more than one Metro line today (red, green AND yellow) to go to Mercado Central, a huge fish market located in the downtown Santiago. Now normally the Metro is pretty easy to navigate, but today was "Dia de los Ninos" and families were out in droves. Dave compares the Metro to an ant farm; everyone is moving very quickly around each other and it's just packed.
Back to the Mercado Central. Enormous and fantastic. At least 20+ "pescadarias" (fish shops) selling octopus (pulpo), salmon, erizos (sea urchins - really!), calamar (squid), flounder, lots of camarones (shrimp) and percebes (barnacles.) The barnacles have little animals that live inside and the claws reach out. How you cook all of this I have no idea, but I will buy an "erizo" or two and let you know how it tastes. We ate empanadas and ceviche at one of the many tiny restaurants and walked back to the Metro through Santiago Central, stopping to look inside the enormous and ornate cathedral (a jaw-dropping experience, rivaling the churches in Italy.)
Fishy Details: I only saw two pescadarias that sold crab, but some places sold cuts of octopus meat that were at least two feet wide. The octopus looks like large pieces of shiny white plastic, but apparently it's a very popular dish since nearly all the fish sellers sold it.
Back to the Mercado Central. Enormous and fantastic. At least 20+ "pescadarias" (fish shops) selling octopus (pulpo), salmon, erizos (sea urchins - really!), calamar (squid), flounder, lots of camarones (shrimp) and percebes (barnacles.) The barnacles have little animals that live inside and the claws reach out. How you cook all of this I have no idea, but I will buy an "erizo" or two and let you know how it tastes. We ate empanadas and ceviche at one of the many tiny restaurants and walked back to the Metro through Santiago Central, stopping to look inside the enormous and ornate cathedral (a jaw-dropping experience, rivaling the churches in Italy.)
Fishy Details: I only saw two pescadarias that sold crab, but some places sold cuts of octopus meat that were at least two feet wide. The octopus looks like large pieces of shiny white plastic, but apparently it's a very popular dish since nearly all the fish sellers sold it.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Meltdown
Sigh... Considering we've been here a week, it's about time I start feeling a little freaked out. I had a guy tell me today, "Look, just talk to me in English because I can't understand your Spanish." I told him it was important for me to speak Spanish whenever possible, but he was some young guy who didn't seem to care. I got teary-eyed the entire way back home on the Metro. So much for feeling masterful today.
Now when learning Spanish, I screw up on a daily basis, get very embarrassed and turn bright red, but I plow through a conversation and try my best. Still, I've got to try and speak as much as possible and mostly people are very, very helpful. The kids are making fun of me because I'm trying so hard, but I'm determined to become fluent as soon as I can. Dave and I talk nearly 75% in Spanish at dinner and I insist on speaking mostly Spanish with him on the telephone. The google.cl translation website is a permanent fixture on my computer.
Details... Santiago boasts the tallest building in South America - the Titanium. It's only about 72 stories high, and there's another skyscraper being built a few blocks away. We can see both of them from our (temporary) apartment. Since the earthquake in February, no one wants to live on a very high floor in an apartment; sounds like we might be able to get a penthouse pretty cheap.
Now when learning Spanish, I screw up on a daily basis, get very embarrassed and turn bright red, but I plow through a conversation and try my best. Still, I've got to try and speak as much as possible and mostly people are very, very helpful. The kids are making fun of me because I'm trying so hard, but I'm determined to become fluent as soon as I can. Dave and I talk nearly 75% in Spanish at dinner and I insist on speaking mostly Spanish with him on the telephone. The google.cl translation website is a permanent fixture on my computer.
Details... Santiago boasts the tallest building in South America - the Titanium. It's only about 72 stories high, and there's another skyscraper being built a few blocks away. We can see both of them from our (temporary) apartment. Since the earthquake in February, no one wants to live on a very high floor in an apartment; sounds like we might be able to get a penthouse pretty cheap.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Skiing & Shopping
For someone used to very hot summers, snow skiing yesterday was quite strange. The whole family rented equipment and a van drove us and a bunch of other skiers up to El Colorado, one of the gentlest mountains in Colorado. The ride itself wasn't too gentle; the hairpin curves were numbered by signs (I think the last one I counted was 45.) Great day of skiing: amazing view of the city and the other mountains, and Molly already skis faster than either of her parents - and it was her very first time.
I've taken over the shopping, which is always an adventure when trying to conduct business in another language AND make the correct change. I screw up on a daily basis, but I'm getting better at speaking and understanding Spanish. I buy bread and wine on a daily basis (what else is there to live on?) and I'm amazed that more people don't reuse bags. I brought my Central Market and Jimmy's Food Store bags from home and the cashiers are always shocked I supply my own.
Detail #1: The fire department here is run strictly by volunteers, and all of the fire trucks are imported! Just this week, we've seen trucks from Germany, England and the USA. It's always interesting to listen to the different sirens.
Detail #2: The cab drivers here are very particular about their money. Some won't take "old bills" and others won't take bills without serial numbers. Every time we have taken a cab there has been a problem with payment; we haven't quite figured this out yet.
I've taken over the shopping, which is always an adventure when trying to conduct business in another language AND make the correct change. I screw up on a daily basis, but I'm getting better at speaking and understanding Spanish. I buy bread and wine on a daily basis (what else is there to live on?) and I'm amazed that more people don't reuse bags. I brought my Central Market and Jimmy's Food Store bags from home and the cashiers are always shocked I supply my own.
Detail #1: The fire department here is run strictly by volunteers, and all of the fire trucks are imported! Just this week, we've seen trucks from Germany, England and the USA. It's always interesting to listen to the different sirens.
Detail #2: The cab drivers here are very particular about their money. Some won't take "old bills" and others won't take bills without serial numbers. Every time we have taken a cab there has been a problem with payment; we haven't quite figured this out yet.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Spanish Only Today
Dave had to work and the kids were exhausted, so I headed out on my own to find us a place to live. The Metro is super-easy to navigate and with a map, it's pretty simple to find my way around the city. I walked for about 4 straight hours and listened to, spoke and read only Spanish. When Dave called me this afternoon, I insisted on speaking only Spanish. Tiring, but very important.
Details of the day: Proper greeting is an air "kiss" on one cheek. Also, some food items are sold in heavy plastic bags: mayo, yogurt, tomato sauce - even milk. Makes just want to step on them like a little ketchup packet.
Details of the day: Proper greeting is an air "kiss" on one cheek. Also, some food items are sold in heavy plastic bags: mayo, yogurt, tomato sauce - even milk. Makes just want to step on them like a little ketchup packet.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Dogs
Day 2: There are roaming dogs here everywhere, and they know when to walk with crowds and to cross on green lights. Today, we saw: 2 cats, 1 llama and 29 dogs. Took the metro and walked/rode the funicula up to San Cristobal to see a giant statue of the Virgin Mary. The food here is fantastic; rich milk and yogurt, and we could eat the empanadas non-stop. Dave and walked for about 2 straight hours this afternoon while the kids rested; we're still looking for a good place to live. Went to the supermarket; they sell live sea urchins in the seafood aisle!
Tonight, we ate at an unbelievable Italian restaurant and Molly ate brain for the first time. Tomorrow, Mass in Spanish; Max can recite the "Lord's Prayer" in Spanish already.
Detail of the day: It is customary to tip 10% in restaurants, etc., not 15-20% as in the USA.
Friday, July 30, 2010
We're Here!
Just flew in this morning. Very strange to fly into a "winter" climate after sweating like crazy the day before. Good to be in the same time zone; no jetlag.
I love a big city, and Santiago is a big city. Our temporary apartment is in the heart of downtown; lots of lights, traffic, tons of people. The city is just so ALIVE. We rode the metro today, went grocery shopping (homemade bread and excellent wine!) and are just trying to learn Spanish.
Detail of the day: The stop signs here say "Pare" but are in the same shape and color as our stop signs. The highway signs are just like the blue autobahn signs in Europe and the roads are excellent.
I love a big city, and Santiago is a big city. Our temporary apartment is in the heart of downtown; lots of lights, traffic, tons of people. The city is just so ALIVE. We rode the metro today, went grocery shopping (homemade bread and excellent wine!) and are just trying to learn Spanish.
Detail of the day: The stop signs here say "Pare" but are in the same shape and color as our stop signs. The highway signs are just like the blue autobahn signs in Europe and the roads are excellent.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Going Away Party ("No Mom, it's a Get Together!"
So Max invited about 15 friends over this afternoon as a "going-away get-together" party. Nice mixture of about 8 girls and 8 boys. Too much pizza and sodas consumed, but in the big picture, Max has a wonderful group of friends who support him and like to hang out together. All polite, kind and generally a great group of polite and caring teenagers.
Molly is hanging out with her girlfriends at a separate "get-together" with her girlfriends. I like the way both kids refuse to say that they are having "going away parties." It's easier to say "get-together;" makes it less difficult to leave your dearest friends and confidants behind.
Molly is hanging out with her girlfriends at a separate "get-together" with her girlfriends. I like the way both kids refuse to say that they are having "going away parties." It's easier to say "get-together;" makes it less difficult to leave your dearest friends and confidants behind.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Church
So far, I've had no major twinges of sadness - until today. Molly and I went to Mass this morning and sat with the Englands; Max and Matthew were altar boys. All of a sudden, tears. No Kleenex! Damn!
Our families have been through a lot together this last year and we really support one another. I draw a huge amount of peace and sense of community from our church. Our new experiences in Santiago will be terrific, but it's still painful to leave my friends. Email and cell phones just aren't enough.
Our families have been through a lot together this last year and we really support one another. I draw a huge amount of peace and sense of community from our church. Our new experiences in Santiago will be terrific, but it's still painful to leave my friends. Email and cell phones just aren't enough.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Countdown
Dallas, Texas: 5 days until the big move to Santiago, Chile. My last few evenings have been spent with my dearest friends over many dinners and numerous bottles of wine. Today, the kids want to know why we can't leave sooner! I'm just wondering how I'm going to adjust going from 104 degrees in Dallas to 45 degrees in Santiago. The idea of winter coats and boots right now is just wrong.
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