Anyone who has an appreciation for the arts (classical music, ballet, art, etc.) would love to live in Santiago. The classical music lover in me is in hog heaven. Last night, Dave and I attended one of three or four free Christmas concerts in our neighborhood and it was literally just down our street. The setup apparently has taken days, but I expected a small ensemble with maybe 100 or so patrons; I was shocked to see how huge it was. (Our community, Lo Barnechea, has an enormous "corporacion cultural" and sponsors all sorts of events.)
It was one of the more interesting concerts I've attended. The entire event - all outdoors - was a perfect blend of a classical music concert and a baseball game. There were bleachers all around the stage and a huge area in the middle with seats. It was standing room only at the start of the concert. I opted for the bleachers in the middle back (best sound) and throughout the concert, there were guys walking around selling bags of peanuts, popcorn and sweets. People were climbing up and down the bleachers throughout the concert, kids were running around everywhere, but I was still able to hear everything thanks to an excellent sound system, fantastic photography and a huge video monitor set up on stage. When it got dark, the vendors started selling little light up toys for the kids. I thought we'd be underdressed but everyone was in jeans, sweatshirts, coats, sandals, etc.
True to Chilean style, the concert didn't start until 8:55 pm (after a published 8:30 pm start time) and wasn't over until about 11:00 pm, but the last half of the concert, Stravinsky's "Firebird" and Ravel's "Bolero" pulled everyone to their feet for a standing ovation. The applause and bravos went on and on; it was wonderful to hear such an appreciative crowd. I walked home with some neighbors happily humming "Bolero."
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Monday, December 13, 2010
Explanations
Something I wasn't expecting when we moved the family to another country: explanations. For the most part, it seems as if most of our American friends and acquaintances cannot understand why we would move. We've been confronted with questions such as, "Why move the entire family? How are you going to work? Where is Chile? You don't know the language, how are you going to communicate? What about schools? When will you visit?" and my favorite, "What if it doesn't work out? That's an awful lot of stress; why do that to yourselves?" Interestingly enough, our European/South American friends have never asked us any of these questions, and I'm not sure why.
And in response, I say, "Why not?" Our time in Chile is starting to go by very quickly; we've been here nearly 5 months and have experienced so much. The kids are thriving. One family we know back in Dallas had the opportunity to live in France for 3 years; they told us we would be silly to pass up such a wonderful opportunity. Do I miss the States? Yes, sometimes, mostly just our friends. Quite honestly, I grow tired of having to explain and defend our decision to relocate for a year. I'd rather discuss our experiences and talk to my friends about their lives.
To quote a friend I worked with back in Dallas when we were weighing the pros and cons of making the move here... "If you got the opportunity to move to Chile, take it. It will be an amazing experience. When you get a lot older, you don't want to look back on your life and say, 'I never went for the gusto.'" Well my friend, I went for it!
And in response, I say, "Why not?" Our time in Chile is starting to go by very quickly; we've been here nearly 5 months and have experienced so much. The kids are thriving. One family we know back in Dallas had the opportunity to live in France for 3 years; they told us we would be silly to pass up such a wonderful opportunity. Do I miss the States? Yes, sometimes, mostly just our friends. Quite honestly, I grow tired of having to explain and defend our decision to relocate for a year. I'd rather discuss our experiences and talk to my friends about their lives.
To quote a friend I worked with back in Dallas when we were weighing the pros and cons of making the move here... "If you got the opportunity to move to Chile, take it. It will be an amazing experience. When you get a lot older, you don't want to look back on your life and say, 'I never went for the gusto.'" Well my friend, I went for it!
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Bicyclists
(Josh, this one's for you. Yes, it's all true.)
Recently, I did a little volunteer work in a city right outside Santiago, so I had to commute about 20-30 minutes through a mountain pass and on the freeway to get there. It was a beautiful, scenic ride but with hairpin turns, limited visibility, steep grades, narrow roads and the danger of falling rocks on the road. I had cars whizzing by me - shocking, because I really drive like a racecar driver. The biggest danger? The bicyclists.
Now I understand the importance of hill work to both runners and cyclists, but the riders in the mountains seem suicidal. A car flies around a curve, but watch out - there's a cyclist. And they don't ride in packs; I've usually only seen solo riders. I'm shocked I don't read about more deaths or injuries to these guys. They fly down the mountains without a care in the world and the cars just don't seem to care either. I just cringe every time I see one.
Even worse, I see riders on the freeways (called "autopistas"), usually cycling on the shoulder. I nearly - very accidentally - hit one on an entrance ramp when I was getting on the autopista. They ride on very packed main streets, too; I've seen a few riders try to pass a bus (and lose, although one got back up on his bike and was fine) and I've seen others run into pedestrians. We actually have a large dent on the back of our SUV here from where a rider ran into us. He recovered and rode off so quickly we were never able to see if he was okay. I would like to say that at least he was wearing a helmet, but unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
On the plus side? Visibly scanning the streets for riders (and pedestrians, who always have right of way) while driving certainly makes me a better, more cautious driver. I just wish more of the cyclists would stop playing chicken with the city buses...
Recently, I did a little volunteer work in a city right outside Santiago, so I had to commute about 20-30 minutes through a mountain pass and on the freeway to get there. It was a beautiful, scenic ride but with hairpin turns, limited visibility, steep grades, narrow roads and the danger of falling rocks on the road. I had cars whizzing by me - shocking, because I really drive like a racecar driver. The biggest danger? The bicyclists.
Now I understand the importance of hill work to both runners and cyclists, but the riders in the mountains seem suicidal. A car flies around a curve, but watch out - there's a cyclist. And they don't ride in packs; I've usually only seen solo riders. I'm shocked I don't read about more deaths or injuries to these guys. They fly down the mountains without a care in the world and the cars just don't seem to care either. I just cringe every time I see one.
Even worse, I see riders on the freeways (called "autopistas"), usually cycling on the shoulder. I nearly - very accidentally - hit one on an entrance ramp when I was getting on the autopista. They ride on very packed main streets, too; I've seen a few riders try to pass a bus (and lose, although one got back up on his bike and was fine) and I've seen others run into pedestrians. We actually have a large dent on the back of our SUV here from where a rider ran into us. He recovered and rode off so quickly we were never able to see if he was okay. I would like to say that at least he was wearing a helmet, but unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
On the plus side? Visibly scanning the streets for riders (and pedestrians, who always have right of way) while driving certainly makes me a better, more cautious driver. I just wish more of the cyclists would stop playing chicken with the city buses...
Christmas, Part 3
One of my very favorite things about Christmas is all the Christmas lights people hang on their houses every year. I'm really into the whole "Snoopy's Doghouse" look. Here, I have yet to see a single light hung up. I have scoured the shelves of the grocery and hardware stores here, looking for outdoor lights. I'm convinced they simply do not exist. I think the idea of exterior lights is completely alien down here. Also, since everyone lives behind huge walls, I doubt there would be anything to see anyway.
Generally speaking, Christmas lights are very expensive here. A box of lights runs about $9,000 pesos (a little more than $18.00 USD.) Luckily there was a huge sale at Jumbo last weekend; I bought every box of clear lights I could find and I'll try to hang them outside - even if we are the only ones that can see them. At least it will feel a little more like home.
Generally speaking, Christmas lights are very expensive here. A box of lights runs about $9,000 pesos (a little more than $18.00 USD.) Luckily there was a huge sale at Jumbo last weekend; I bought every box of clear lights I could find and I'll try to hang them outside - even if we are the only ones that can see them. At least it will feel a little more like home.
Christmas, Part 2
The other day, I was grocery shopping at "Jumbo" (the only "j" that's actually pronounced here) and was listening to piped in Christmas music. I was at the bread counter getting my bag of bread weighed and coded when "Frosty the Snowman" came on overhead. Seriously. So I told the bread lady that the music was pretty strange, wasn't it. She smiled at me a little, and I asked her if she know what the song was. She had no idea of it's meaning.
So here was a first... actually explaining the "Frosty" lyrics to someone. During late springtime. In a grocery store. In another language. I'm not sure if she really understood everything I said, but at least it was good Spanish practice.
So here was a first... actually explaining the "Frosty" lyrics to someone. During late springtime. In a grocery store. In another language. I'm not sure if she really understood everything I said, but at least it was good Spanish practice.
Christmas, Part 1
Since Chile is "a Catholic country" (which is how their constitution is written), Christmas is a big event here. Until recently, I never realized how much "Christmas" is a northern hemisphere, European/North American holiday.
All the Christmas decorations involve Santa, reindeer, fake snow, manger scenes - everything you see in the USA. I am planning to get a a Christmas tree, but here's the problem: it's nearly summer. After consulting a fellow expat who's got 18 years experience in Chile, I was told that fake trees are the way to go; no one has real trees. My friend actually has two small trees on her dining table, so small that any sort of Christmas ornament weighs them down and knocks them over.
And since we'll probably be wearing bathing suits and swimming in our pool on Christmas day, I think I'll find a palm tree for this year's Christmas tree.
All the Christmas decorations involve Santa, reindeer, fake snow, manger scenes - everything you see in the USA. I am planning to get a a Christmas tree, but here's the problem: it's nearly summer. After consulting a fellow expat who's got 18 years experience in Chile, I was told that fake trees are the way to go; no one has real trees. My friend actually has two small trees on her dining table, so small that any sort of Christmas ornament weighs them down and knocks them over.
And since we'll probably be wearing bathing suits and swimming in our pool on Christmas day, I think I'll find a palm tree for this year's Christmas tree.
Movies
Opening day for the movie "Harry Potter 7" in Santiago. I told Molly and her friend I would take both of them as soon as it opened. Anticipating a long line and sellout crowds, I drove to the theater and bought the tickets a few hours ahead. I shouldn't have worried. There were no crowds and the theater itself was just 1/4 full. It could have been because it was a Friday afternoon and things really don't start hopping down here until 8 or 9 at night, but still, I thought it was strange. Very subdued crowd. Maybe it was the theater.
We went to another movie a few weeks later, and the theater was only moderately full. It was an adventure movie, and since I was used to boisterous crowds in theaters, I expected cheering during the good fight scenes. Complete silence, and it wasn't a language barrier either. Maybe Chileans just get excited during football matches.
We went to another movie a few weeks later, and the theater was only moderately full. It was an adventure movie, and since I was used to boisterous crowds in theaters, I expected cheering during the good fight scenes. Complete silence, and it wasn't a language barrier either. Maybe Chileans just get excited during football matches.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Running
For exercise, I've run since I was in high school, on and off, usually very slowly and very badly. In order to keep in shape here, I picked up running again and I must say I haven't enjoyed it this much in a long, long time. The view of the mountains and of the city is spectacular no matter where I run.
I usually run through the neighborhood, in the streets, on the sidewalks, etc., and it's an excellent way to learn my way around the area. I am getting to know the houses, the dogs, the construction workers (who always make me feel fit and beautiful) and the security patrol. There must be a 4-5 private patrol cars that drive around the area all day; we're not on a first name basis yet, but we do smile and wave. It's nice to know I can call to them if I get injured.
I've even ventured into the mountains a little also - bought my first ever pair of trail shoes. I have a 100m hill climb I like to do every Wednesday. I just hope my knees will hold out.
I usually run through the neighborhood, in the streets, on the sidewalks, etc., and it's an excellent way to learn my way around the area. I am getting to know the houses, the dogs, the construction workers (who always make me feel fit and beautiful) and the security patrol. There must be a 4-5 private patrol cars that drive around the area all day; we're not on a first name basis yet, but we do smile and wave. It's nice to know I can call to them if I get injured.
I've even ventured into the mountains a little also - bought my first ever pair of trail shoes. I have a 100m hill climb I like to do every Wednesday. I just hope my knees will hold out.
Punctuality
Punctuality is not a concept of any importance in Santiago. Meetings, events, sports, etc., simply do not start on time here. For example, I've had two business meetings with the same company, and neither meeting started either early or on time (in fact, I actually rescheduled and left after waiting over 30 minutes.) Molly had a football championship event the other night so her team could earn their medals. It started 50 minutes late. And I was worried that we would be late since the traffic was so bad.
So I can do one of two things: either get very agitated and stressed that nothing runs on time, or sit back, relax and take on the Chilean mentality of "it will happen when it happens." I've chosen the latter and believe me, it's a lot less stressful.
So I can do one of two things: either get very agitated and stressed that nothing runs on time, or sit back, relax and take on the Chilean mentality of "it will happen when it happens." I've chosen the latter and believe me, it's a lot less stressful.
Car Breakdown - Funny!
One afternoon Dave picked up Max from school and noticed a car broken down in the middle lane of Ave. Los Condes, a very busy 4-6 lane road. While waiting at a red light, they noticed that the police had arrived to take care of the situation. But, where was the tow truck?
No tow truck, no problem. The policeman walked out in the middle of traffic, stopped all the cars, motioned to about 10 teenagers on the sidewalk waiting at the bus stop (all in crisp school uniforms with backpacks in tow) and waved the teens over. All of them students then assisted in pushing the car over to the side of the road to free up traffic congestion.
Amazing. I can just hear one of the parents now, "Honey, I'm doing laundry. Why is there gear grease all over your school skirt?"
No tow truck, no problem. The policeman walked out in the middle of traffic, stopped all the cars, motioned to about 10 teenagers on the sidewalk waiting at the bus stop (all in crisp school uniforms with backpacks in tow) and waved the teens over. All of them students then assisted in pushing the car over to the side of the road to free up traffic congestion.
Amazing. I can just hear one of the parents now, "Honey, I'm doing laundry. Why is there gear grease all over your school skirt?"
Lightbulbs
For some reason, lightbulbs simply don't last long in Santiago. When Molly told me her desk lamp bulb had burned out, I went to go buy a new one. That was an adventure.
There are more different kinds of lightbulbs here than I've ever seen. Different watts (of course) but what is really confusing is the base sizes. There doesn't seem to be an sort of regulated lamp base size; most of them are completely different. And I'm not sure how the bulbs don't get broken. Most of the time they're simply packed in little cardboard boxes, with no discernible padding.
Dave's taking care of replacing the lightbulbs in the bathroom. That seems to be taking a while...
There are more different kinds of lightbulbs here than I've ever seen. Different watts (of course) but what is really confusing is the base sizes. There doesn't seem to be an sort of regulated lamp base size; most of them are completely different. And I'm not sure how the bulbs don't get broken. Most of the time they're simply packed in little cardboard boxes, with no discernible padding.
Dave's taking care of replacing the lightbulbs in the bathroom. That seems to be taking a while...
National Anthem
The oddest things make me homesick. I was at an event the other night, and everyone rose to sing the national anthem. Chile's national anthem. First of all, I can't understand it at all (although I'm researching the lyrics on the internet), and second, it is REALLY long.
I felt an uncomfortable pang of sadness and realized that I missed the USA's national anthem, with all the difficult notes and often sang-out-of-tune music. A bit of patriotism got a hold of me? Perhaps, but I doubt I'll ever take our anthem for granted again, no matter how many times I sing it or hear it.
I felt an uncomfortable pang of sadness and realized that I missed the USA's national anthem, with all the difficult notes and often sang-out-of-tune music. A bit of patriotism got a hold of me? Perhaps, but I doubt I'll ever take our anthem for granted again, no matter how many times I sing it or hear it.
Thanksgiving, Part Two
Being in a foreign country is a little different on a major holiday, especially when the weather is just the opposite of what you're used to. It was so hot on Thanksgiving the kids went swimming. No Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade and it's not a holiday here, but the we kept the kids home from school and enjoyed a day off.
We celebrated with another American/Chilean family and true to Chilean custom, we didn't eat dinner until very late - probably about 8:30 pm. When you're used to eating a Thanksgiving feast at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, this is a big change.
But, true to American culture, we watched a "football" game - live. Actually, it was Molly's "soccer" game; she and her teammates played their championship game and won! Okay, not pads and overgrown boys running around a fake field in the cold, but definitely much more exciting.
We celebrated with another American/Chilean family and true to Chilean custom, we didn't eat dinner until very late - probably about 8:30 pm. When you're used to eating a Thanksgiving feast at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, this is a big change.
But, true to American culture, we watched a "football" game - live. Actually, it was Molly's "soccer" game; she and her teammates played their championship game and won! Okay, not pads and overgrown boys running around a fake field in the cold, but definitely much more exciting.
Thanksgiving, Part One
(Blog is back. Sorry for the delay.)
Now I like to cook. A lot. Of course, not if I have to clean up, and sometimes "prepackaged" or "canned" foods can really help. So when the kids asked for their favorite pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dessert, I thought, "No problem. I've made tons of these." Only problem? Canned pumpkin does NOT exist here. But... there is fresh pumpkin.
A little research on the internet on how to cook fresh pumpkin and I was set. The preparation wasn't quite as difficult as I thought, although pumpkin rinds are extremely tough to cut off (but thank goodness not to many seeds.) After a good 30 minute steam, the pumpkin pulp was done - a bright, dayglo orange. It looked like something out of a science fiction movie.
Needless to say, I cooked the pie (although the cinnamon here is very mild) and it was wonderful, if not very, very vivid orange. We were also able to eat turkey and ham (delicious), potatoes (but not sweet potatoes, couldn't find them), and the popular green bean casserole - with homemade french fried onion rings on top. I might need to open my own restaurant.
Now I like to cook. A lot. Of course, not if I have to clean up, and sometimes "prepackaged" or "canned" foods can really help. So when the kids asked for their favorite pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dessert, I thought, "No problem. I've made tons of these." Only problem? Canned pumpkin does NOT exist here. But... there is fresh pumpkin.
A little research on the internet on how to cook fresh pumpkin and I was set. The preparation wasn't quite as difficult as I thought, although pumpkin rinds are extremely tough to cut off (but thank goodness not to many seeds.) After a good 30 minute steam, the pumpkin pulp was done - a bright, dayglo orange. It looked like something out of a science fiction movie.
Needless to say, I cooked the pie (although the cinnamon here is very mild) and it was wonderful, if not very, very vivid orange. We were also able to eat turkey and ham (delicious), potatoes (but not sweet potatoes, couldn't find them), and the popular green bean casserole - with homemade french fried onion rings on top. I might need to open my own restaurant.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Clase de Espanol
Con permiso... I have been spending much of my time in Spanish class lately, so the blog has suffered. Nothing like a class in a foreign language to make you realize how much you really DON'T know. I'm glad I majored in English because it makes understanding all the verb conjugations; does anyone remember what a gerund is?
I'm really luck since I spend my class with other students from all over the world. My current classmate is from Germany; my last classmate was from Holland and is training to be a doctor, currently doing some of her residency in Bolivia. The teachers are amazing, but no English is spoken at all. My handy dictionary is getting quite a workout. It's pretty nerve-racking to have such a command of one language and be so limited and try to communicate in another.
So my big step today was announcing to Dave that we should only speak Spanish from now on. Easier said than done, but so far I've spoken far more Spanish than English today. This means we only speak Spanish with the kids - so far, so good, but we'll see how long they're patient with us!
I'm really luck since I spend my class with other students from all over the world. My current classmate is from Germany; my last classmate was from Holland and is training to be a doctor, currently doing some of her residency in Bolivia. The teachers are amazing, but no English is spoken at all. My handy dictionary is getting quite a workout. It's pretty nerve-racking to have such a command of one language and be so limited and try to communicate in another.
So my big step today was announcing to Dave that we should only speak Spanish from now on. Easier said than done, but so far I've spoken far more Spanish than English today. This means we only speak Spanish with the kids - so far, so good, but we'll see how long they're patient with us!
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
September's Top 5 of Santiago
I think I'll make this into a monthly routine:
5. I can get cellphone, Internet and FB access while riding on the Metro. For some reason, everyone gets perfect service, even in the tunnels.
4. For the most part, drivers will let you merge, even if you don't signal.
3. After it rains, the sky is so clear you can see kilometers and kilometers of mountains.
2. It's perfectly acceptable to have a glass of wine for lunch.
1. It's springtime, so it'll start getting warmer!
5. I can get cellphone, Internet and FB access while riding on the Metro. For some reason, everyone gets perfect service, even in the tunnels.
4. For the most part, drivers will let you merge, even if you don't signal.
3. After it rains, the sky is so clear you can see kilometers and kilometers of mountains.
2. It's perfectly acceptable to have a glass of wine for lunch.
1. It's springtime, so it'll start getting warmer!
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Business Meetings
First rule of business meetings in Santiago: they never start on time, but this is no excuse for being late. Meetings always start out with coffee (or other beverage of your choice.) People usually go to meeting after meeting, so as Dave says, you need to be watch your fluid intake or you'll really need to use the bathroom! Meetings are extremely social and friendly, but highly efficient, probably because everyone drinks so much coffee.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
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