I think I'll make this into a monthly routine:
5. I can get cellphone, Internet and FB access while riding on the Metro. For some reason, everyone gets perfect service, even in the tunnels.
4. For the most part, drivers will let you merge, even if you don't signal.
3. After it rains, the sky is so clear you can see kilometers and kilometers of mountains.
2. It's perfectly acceptable to have a glass of wine for lunch.
1. It's springtime, so it'll start getting warmer!
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Business Meetings
First rule of business meetings in Santiago: they never start on time, but this is no excuse for being late. Meetings always start out with coffee (or other beverage of your choice.) People usually go to meeting after meeting, so as Dave says, you need to be watch your fluid intake or you'll really need to use the bathroom! Meetings are extremely social and friendly, but highly efficient, probably because everyone drinks so much coffee.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
Here's something that came as a surprise to Dave during a business function: when you receive a cellphone all during a business meeting, it's considered polite and expected to answer the phone and take the call. This proves to your fellow business meeting associates that you are polite and respectful of others' time.
Briefcases aren't a common sight. I ride the metro every day, and I rarely see a business person that isn't hand-carrying a notebook, calendar or folder. I don't know what I'd do without my backpack or messenger bag, but most people here seem very content just holding their paperwork - and their cellphones in their other hand.
Monday, September 20, 2010
Bicentennial
Lots going on this weekend. Chile celebrated it's 200th birthday; here's a small list of activities in which we participated:
1. Ranch: Friends of ours have a "ranch" south of Santiago. It's more like a mountain range; as far as we could see, that was the family ranch. Gorgeous hiking, night parties in the small town down the street.
2. The Border: At the ranch this weekend, we took a drive through the mountains and decided to go as far as we could to the Argentinian border. We made within about 6 miles before we met up with the border control officers. Usually border control = trouble, but these guys gave us a tour of the hot springs located nearby, let us take our picture with them, and gave us a handful of empanadas. Only in Chile.
3. No Shopping: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING shut down Saturday, Sunday and Monday, including all malls, stores, groceries, schools and businesses. I think the only places open were hospitals and gas stations.
4. Parades: We went to the Grand Military Parade at Parque O'Higgins yesterday. Parades here are different. We expected people to line the streets, but instead the President, high-ranking military and other high-ups rode around in front of a stadium and gave speeches. The President drove by us just as a lady next to us fainted; Dave and Molly saw the President, I helped the lady (that's the OT in me.) No bands, no dancers, no floats, but a lot of families picnicking and flying kites.
5. Parties: Since the stores were closed for three days, we stocked up on food. Needless to say, we haven't eaten any of it since we've been at friends' houses. Tomorrow, back to the real world, but bicentennial celebrations only happen once!
1. Ranch: Friends of ours have a "ranch" south of Santiago. It's more like a mountain range; as far as we could see, that was the family ranch. Gorgeous hiking, night parties in the small town down the street.
2. The Border: At the ranch this weekend, we took a drive through the mountains and decided to go as far as we could to the Argentinian border. We made within about 6 miles before we met up with the border control officers. Usually border control = trouble, but these guys gave us a tour of the hot springs located nearby, let us take our picture with them, and gave us a handful of empanadas. Only in Chile.
3. No Shopping: Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING shut down Saturday, Sunday and Monday, including all malls, stores, groceries, schools and businesses. I think the only places open were hospitals and gas stations.
4. Parades: We went to the Grand Military Parade at Parque O'Higgins yesterday. Parades here are different. We expected people to line the streets, but instead the President, high-ranking military and other high-ups rode around in front of a stadium and gave speeches. The President drove by us just as a lady next to us fainted; Dave and Molly saw the President, I helped the lady (that's the OT in me.) No bands, no dancers, no floats, but a lot of families picnicking and flying kites.
5. Parties: Since the stores were closed for three days, we stocked up on food. Needless to say, we haven't eaten any of it since we've been at friends' houses. Tomorrow, back to the real world, but bicentennial celebrations only happen once!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Role with the Changes
There are certain things I expected when I moved to Chile - new language, different food, missing my home and friends. Identity loss wasn't one of them. Sure, I've gladly remained in the roles of "mom" and "wife," but lost - for the moment - are my other roles of OT, mentor, coach. After working so hard for many years, it's pretty difficult to slam on the brakes and adjust to a different lifestyle. As an OT, I'm used to helping people reinvent themselves and establish role identity. I am just not very good at helping myself. I'm experiencing major withdrawal symptoms - all of which are completely normal but downright frustrating.
Don't get me wrong: I am enjoying my time here, learning another language and culture, and I really enjoy traveling and socializing, but now that we've settled in I need something to do - something meaningful and cerebral. Many of my Texan friends recommended taking time off, relaxing, traveling. I am doing just that, but I also need to move on to something more of a challenge.
So, I started an intensive Spanish language course. Everyday, 4-5 hours per day for the next 4-6 weeks the kids go to school and so do I. Becoming fluent is definitely a step into a new role, which as yet, excitingly, remains to be seen.
Don't get me wrong: I am enjoying my time here, learning another language and culture, and I really enjoy traveling and socializing, but now that we've settled in I need something to do - something meaningful and cerebral. Many of my Texan friends recommended taking time off, relaxing, traveling. I am doing just that, but I also need to move on to something more of a challenge.
So, I started an intensive Spanish language course. Everyday, 4-5 hours per day for the next 4-6 weeks the kids go to school and so do I. Becoming fluent is definitely a step into a new role, which as yet, excitingly, remains to be seen.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
The Chilean Kitchen
Seeing as it's "bicentennial week" in Chile, I thought I'd try my hand at cooking a few traditional dishes. First, "pate" (turkey - not my first choice for white meat, but it's really good.) The recipe itself was easy enough to translate and follow, but the largest food processor I could find is no bigger than a teacup. I spent more time with the processor than actually cooking, and I made enough pate to feed the Chilean army.
This morning, I am attempting to make "mote con huesillos," a sort of tea with dried peaches and wheat. I soaked the peaches overnight; now they are boiling and looking oddly like something you'd find sunk in formaldehyde in a science lab. The caramel I made to add to the tea was cooking just fine until it took on a mind of it's own and burned (sigh.) Now I know why the stores sell huge containers of pre-made caramel - which I had on hand and added to the brewing "tea" - although now the peaches have a funny film on top (sigh again.) At least I had the foresight to buy the pre-soaked wheat.
I found a fantastic recipe for a "salade to tomate con congrio" that I wanted to try, thinking that congrio was conch. Wrong. It's eel. But it sounds so good I may just have to try it and tell the kids they're eating chicken (everything tastes like chicken!) And I'll pair it with a side of "erizos con salsa verde" (sea urchins with green salsa). Then again, there is a McDonald's right down the street.
This morning, I am attempting to make "mote con huesillos," a sort of tea with dried peaches and wheat. I soaked the peaches overnight; now they are boiling and looking oddly like something you'd find sunk in formaldehyde in a science lab. The caramel I made to add to the tea was cooking just fine until it took on a mind of it's own and burned (sigh.) Now I know why the stores sell huge containers of pre-made caramel - which I had on hand and added to the brewing "tea" - although now the peaches have a funny film on top (sigh again.) At least I had the foresight to buy the pre-soaked wheat.
I found a fantastic recipe for a "salade to tomate con congrio" that I wanted to try, thinking that congrio was conch. Wrong. It's eel. But it sounds so good I may just have to try it and tell the kids they're eating chicken (everything tastes like chicken!) And I'll pair it with a side of "erizos con salsa verde" (sea urchins with green salsa). Then again, there is a McDonald's right down the street.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Beginning the Bicentennial
Well, a country only turns 200 once, so why not make it a big party? Next week, Chile marks it's 200th birthday, and it will be nonstop celebrations every day and night.
It started today with a wonderful presentation at the kids' school. Most of the kids and teachers, decked out in traditional Chilean dress, performed dances and skits; the school band played a few songs (it's a great band!) and there was plenty of empanadas and sopapillas to eat.
Next week, there will be concerts, fireworks, parades, and tons of parties. All the cabs and many of the truck drivers sport clip-on Chilean flags on their vehicles and one of the ski resorts is boasting "1/2 price" skiing all next week.
The best part? Max and Molly - and all the other Chilean kids - have off a week of school to celebrate. That means we can all sleep in after our nights of partying.
It started today with a wonderful presentation at the kids' school. Most of the kids and teachers, decked out in traditional Chilean dress, performed dances and skits; the school band played a few songs (it's a great band!) and there was plenty of empanadas and sopapillas to eat.
Next week, there will be concerts, fireworks, parades, and tons of parties. All the cabs and many of the truck drivers sport clip-on Chilean flags on their vehicles and one of the ski resorts is boasting "1/2 price" skiing all next week.
The best part? Max and Molly - and all the other Chilean kids - have off a week of school to celebrate. That means we can all sleep in after our nights of partying.
A Different September 11
One of the main streets in downtown Santiago is named "Av. 11 de Septembre." The first time I saw this, the small-minded American in me thought, "How nice. Santiago named a street in honor of the 9-11 attacks in NYC." Little did I know that 9-11 has an entirely different meaning in Chile.
Time for a short history lesson: On September 11, 1973, Augusto Pinochet and the Chilean military overthrew President Salvador Allende in a coup d'etat. The country had been economically ailing, and Pinochet's militaristic rule promised to bring about beneficial changes. His control would last until 1990.
Before moving here, I'd always heard that Pinochet was a barbarian, a violator of human rights, which I still strongly agree is true. Now in Chile, I still hear the same sentiments, but interlaced with comments of economic growth under his regime. Can I get a straight answer from anyone in Chile about Pinochet's government and his actions? No, it's a very, very sensitive topic, usually only discussed among close friends (and even then it's a very debatable and delicate subject.)
So how is 11 de Septembre celebrated? Is celebrated the right word? I've never lived in a place where a national holiday is controversial. For safety purposes, I may just watch the "celebrations" on TV tonight; friends have told me to stay away from downtown.
Time for a short history lesson: On September 11, 1973, Augusto Pinochet and the Chilean military overthrew President Salvador Allende in a coup d'etat. The country had been economically ailing, and Pinochet's militaristic rule promised to bring about beneficial changes. His control would last until 1990.
Before moving here, I'd always heard that Pinochet was a barbarian, a violator of human rights, which I still strongly agree is true. Now in Chile, I still hear the same sentiments, but interlaced with comments of economic growth under his regime. Can I get a straight answer from anyone in Chile about Pinochet's government and his actions? No, it's a very, very sensitive topic, usually only discussed among close friends (and even then it's a very debatable and delicate subject.)
So how is 11 de Septembre celebrated? Is celebrated the right word? I've never lived in a place where a national holiday is controversial. For safety purposes, I may just watch the "celebrations" on TV tonight; friends have told me to stay away from downtown.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Fashion
Thank God I'm a brunette, because I'm definitely in the right part of the world! Physically, I could almost pass for a Chilean if it weren't for my green eyes and my substantial and curvy posterior. Oh, and my hair's too short; most of the ladies here have long flowing hair, rarely worn up or back.
Since it's winter now, most everyone wears very dark jackets, black high-heeled boots (all different heights) and tight jeans tucked into the boots - brings new meaning to "goth." And the women all wear scarves, lots of beautiful scarves, all different lengths and fabrics. My favorite item has got to be the sweaters; I now own a couple. Gorgeous colors that I can't find in the USA, with long sleeves and long hemlines in the front, short in the back (the cut almost resembles a handkerchief.) I see a lot of purples, greens, blues, very rich jewel colors and nearly no pastels. Huge handbags are "in" down here, too, all colors and styles but heavily laden with the hardware I see back in the States. Makeup is nearly non-existent but it's just not needed; people's skin here is clear and radiant. (Even the teenagers don't have a lot of acne like I see in the States.)
I'll be curious to see what the spring and summer bring. Stores are touting white jeans and high-heeled sandals. Not sure about the white jeans, but I am learning to walk like a super-model in the heels since I wear them almost daily!
Since it's winter now, most everyone wears very dark jackets, black high-heeled boots (all different heights) and tight jeans tucked into the boots - brings new meaning to "goth." And the women all wear scarves, lots of beautiful scarves, all different lengths and fabrics. My favorite item has got to be the sweaters; I now own a couple. Gorgeous colors that I can't find in the USA, with long sleeves and long hemlines in the front, short in the back (the cut almost resembles a handkerchief.) I see a lot of purples, greens, blues, very rich jewel colors and nearly no pastels. Huge handbags are "in" down here, too, all colors and styles but heavily laden with the hardware I see back in the States. Makeup is nearly non-existent but it's just not needed; people's skin here is clear and radiant. (Even the teenagers don't have a lot of acne like I see in the States.)
I'll be curious to see what the spring and summer bring. Stores are touting white jeans and high-heeled sandals. Not sure about the white jeans, but I am learning to walk like a super-model in the heels since I wear them almost daily!
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Support and Self-Reliance
I was feeling a little lonely last week, so I decided to attend the local International Expat weekly meeting. It was very helpful; I met a lot of wonderful people from all over the world who helped answer some of my questions about Santiago. A number of people asked me what company Dave worked for and how well were we "taken care of" by his company during our move to South America. I was at an utter loss for words, and then it hit me...
Most companies offer moving compensation and relocation support; we used none of that when we moved. One lady at the meeting is taking Spanish lessons and has a personal driver via her husband's company; I'm armed with a map, my trusty dictionary, and a free spirit when I venture out on the metro or in a taxi - alone. None of our furniture came down with us, nor our pets; everything was put in storage, pets were sadly given to friends and we've had to start over. I found and negotiated the terms of the lease on our house here, researched and figured out the kids' school. I battle the crowds when grocery shopping, cook new Chilean dishes using a new measurement system, and I fearlessly make an ass out of myself on a daily basis as I struggle through conversations in Spanish. I walked out of the meeting a little prouder and much more self-assured.
Dave's Dallas-based company has been less than supportive down here, but we're learning all about supporting each other as a family and becoming extremely self-reliant. As Molly said before we moved, "As long as we have each other, we'll be alright."
Most companies offer moving compensation and relocation support; we used none of that when we moved. One lady at the meeting is taking Spanish lessons and has a personal driver via her husband's company; I'm armed with a map, my trusty dictionary, and a free spirit when I venture out on the metro or in a taxi - alone. None of our furniture came down with us, nor our pets; everything was put in storage, pets were sadly given to friends and we've had to start over. I found and negotiated the terms of the lease on our house here, researched and figured out the kids' school. I battle the crowds when grocery shopping, cook new Chilean dishes using a new measurement system, and I fearlessly make an ass out of myself on a daily basis as I struggle through conversations in Spanish. I walked out of the meeting a little prouder and much more self-assured.
Dave's Dallas-based company has been less than supportive down here, but we're learning all about supporting each other as a family and becoming extremely self-reliant. As Molly said before we moved, "As long as we have each other, we'll be alright."
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Santiago Eccentricities, Part II
(A continuation of yesterday's post...)
8. Private schools are "colegios," but public schools are "escuelas." Universities are not colleges but "universidads."
9. A very good bottle of red wine costs much less than a good bottle of body lotion.
10. "No Frost" fridges are a rather recent phenomenon.
11. A simple transaction at a major department store can take 2-3 people: one to ring up the purchase, one to wrap, and one to assist you with any other potential purchases.
12. It's difficult to find "college rule" notebooks; most of the paper in them looks like graph paper. Makes a lot of sense for math!
8. Private schools are "colegios," but public schools are "escuelas." Universities are not colleges but "universidads."
9. A very good bottle of red wine costs much less than a good bottle of body lotion.
10. "No Frost" fridges are a rather recent phenomenon.
11. A simple transaction at a major department store can take 2-3 people: one to ring up the purchase, one to wrap, and one to assist you with any other potential purchases.
12. It's difficult to find "college rule" notebooks; most of the paper in them looks like graph paper. Makes a lot of sense for math!
Santiago Eccentricities
We've been here five weeks now, and there are still some things about Santiago that leave me scratching my head in wonder. I'm not poking fun at the culture; on the contrary, I find these things fascinating and often very efficient. Here's a few examples:
1. Ambulances ALWAYS drive with their lights flashing. If there's an emergency, then the sirens sound.
2. Driving! Cars turn "right" even when in a "straight only" lane. Lane markers are sometimes purely ornamental. There's a lot of lane straddling, too, but there are hardly any left-turn only lanes.
3. Milk isn't sold in gallons and it's not sold in the fridge. It's sold in liters and I buy it by the case. Considering how much milk Molly and I drink this is very helpful.
4. I don't have to pump my own gas. Every gas station has attendants that pump my gas and wash my car windows.
5. It's winter here now, and ALL the ladies wear boots - with heels. And tight jeans. And beautiful scarves. And they are all just beautiful. I'm wearing the heels and scarves; I'm considering the tight jeans.
6. The subway stations have gorgeous artwork on the walls, and a few of the larger stations have shops that sell anything from magazines to women's underwear.
7. Salad dressing is pretty much non-existent here.
To be continued!
1. Ambulances ALWAYS drive with their lights flashing. If there's an emergency, then the sirens sound.
2. Driving! Cars turn "right" even when in a "straight only" lane. Lane markers are sometimes purely ornamental. There's a lot of lane straddling, too, but there are hardly any left-turn only lanes.
3. Milk isn't sold in gallons and it's not sold in the fridge. It's sold in liters and I buy it by the case. Considering how much milk Molly and I drink this is very helpful.
4. I don't have to pump my own gas. Every gas station has attendants that pump my gas and wash my car windows.
5. It's winter here now, and ALL the ladies wear boots - with heels. And tight jeans. And beautiful scarves. And they are all just beautiful. I'm wearing the heels and scarves; I'm considering the tight jeans.
6. The subway stations have gorgeous artwork on the walls, and a few of the larger stations have shops that sell anything from magazines to women's underwear.
7. Salad dressing is pretty much non-existent here.
To be continued!
Friday, September 3, 2010
A Kid's Perspective
As I talked with my kids Max and Molly at breakfast this morning, I thought it would be a good idea to get their perspective of Santiago. I was pleasantly surprised at their answers.
Both repeatedly commented that everyone is "nicer" here - kids and adults. Molly said that the girls and the boys are"super-nice," not just the kids from her school but others that we've met on social occasions. Max likes that the lifestyle is not as rushed and people "have more time for you, don't seem as stressed-out." Both said that other kids in school are helping them learn Spanish and translating for them, too.
Naturally, food was part of the conversation. Molly loves the milk, and both kids commented on the advantages of "better food" here; they said it seemed "healthier." Max appreciates that in a restaurant he's offered a glass of wine along with the adults, although he has no desire to drink.
Granted, it's not been all rosy for the kids, moving from one continent to another, learning a new language, starting a new school, and making new friends; there have been tears, angst, anger and frustration. But I'm so proud at how positive and resilient they are, and even happier that they seem to really enjoy Chile.
Both repeatedly commented that everyone is "nicer" here - kids and adults. Molly said that the girls and the boys are"super-nice," not just the kids from her school but others that we've met on social occasions. Max likes that the lifestyle is not as rushed and people "have more time for you, don't seem as stressed-out." Both said that other kids in school are helping them learn Spanish and translating for them, too.
Naturally, food was part of the conversation. Molly loves the milk, and both kids commented on the advantages of "better food" here; they said it seemed "healthier." Max appreciates that in a restaurant he's offered a glass of wine along with the adults, although he has no desire to drink.
Granted, it's not been all rosy for the kids, moving from one continent to another, learning a new language, starting a new school, and making new friends; there have been tears, angst, anger and frustration. But I'm so proud at how positive and resilient they are, and even happier that they seem to really enjoy Chile.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Competition
This morning, I received an email from one of my dearest friends and fellow coaches back in the States. It seems her daughter has a terrible football (excuse me, "soccer") coach who is ultra-competitive and not a good role model. After reading and replying to the email, it hit me: there's just not the same level of competition here in Chile that there is in the USA.
Now I know I haven't been down here long enough to truly comment on this area, but I have been a coach for 10 years and I'm a pretty hard-driving, type-A personality; I think I have expertise in this area. But when my daughter comes home from school saying that she played volleyball and all the girls had FUN and no one was worried about winning or losing, I began to wonder. Sage observation from an 11-year-old: the girls just wanted to play, even though most of them were fantastic players. No one was forcing them to be the best. My daughter could not have been happier.
I shared this with Dave, who in turn repeated a comment he had heard that day from one of his consultants and close friends, an economics professor here in Chile. His friend claims that Chileans, for the most part, are not competitive. He tells his economics students that if they were removed from the Chilean environment and dropped in the USA, they would get eaten alive.
And Chile is still a very prosperous and economically booming country, not to mention that the Chilean football team made the quarterfinals in the World Cup. Perhaps there is some competition, but it definitely seems healthier.
Now I know I haven't been down here long enough to truly comment on this area, but I have been a coach for 10 years and I'm a pretty hard-driving, type-A personality; I think I have expertise in this area. But when my daughter comes home from school saying that she played volleyball and all the girls had FUN and no one was worried about winning or losing, I began to wonder. Sage observation from an 11-year-old: the girls just wanted to play, even though most of them were fantastic players. No one was forcing them to be the best. My daughter could not have been happier.
I shared this with Dave, who in turn repeated a comment he had heard that day from one of his consultants and close friends, an economics professor here in Chile. His friend claims that Chileans, for the most part, are not competitive. He tells his economics students that if they were removed from the Chilean environment and dropped in the USA, they would get eaten alive.
And Chile is still a very prosperous and economically booming country, not to mention that the Chilean football team made the quarterfinals in the World Cup. Perhaps there is some competition, but it definitely seems healthier.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Chilean Hospitality
I've seldom visited another country where I've been greeted with such warm and welcoming people. Most of the Chileans I've met have gone out of their way to help our family and have treated us lovingly and respectfully. We've been invited to concerts, a family's ranch near the Argentinian border, a fantastic outdoor play park; our new landlord insists on giving a private driving tour of the city.
While the car was being inspected yesterday (see previous post), one of Dave's Chilean friends/employees insisted on driving me to different stores to buy books for the kids' school. First though, we stopped by his house to check on his mother who was in bed with a cold. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in her bedroom visiting with her and a large bowl of hot soup was put in front of me. Then bananas with a wonderful "miel de palme" - a delicious syrup - followed by more chopped fruit. We must have visited for at least 90 minutes; she gave me advice about everything from furniture shopping to food. Her husband came home from work (he's a professor at one of the local unversities) and sat visiting with us while he ate his lunch. The visit never felt rushed and I wished I could have stayed there the rest of the afternoon.
While the car was being inspected yesterday (see previous post), one of Dave's Chilean friends/employees insisted on driving me to different stores to buy books for the kids' school. First though, we stopped by his house to check on his mother who was in bed with a cold. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in her bedroom visiting with her and a large bowl of hot soup was put in front of me. Then bananas with a wonderful "miel de palme" - a delicious syrup - followed by more chopped fruit. We must have visited for at least 90 minutes; she gave me advice about everything from furniture shopping to food. Her husband came home from work (he's a professor at one of the local unversities) and sat visiting with us while he ate his lunch. The visit never felt rushed and I wished I could have stayed there the rest of the afternoon.
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